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GlassWolf
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Post by GlassWolf »

well, measuring output of any amp goes a lot easier with a non-inductive dummy load, but those can be built from old hair dryers. If you have a DMM that measures AC voltage, you could probably use that to measure the output across the speaker leads acting as a dummy load.
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William from NOLA
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Post by William from NOLA »

^ much cheaper than an oscilloscope. MUCH

You definately have some problems with the car. You need to reinforce parts of your car. Too much flexing and probably some cancellation.
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Bwcad1
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Post by Bwcad1 »

suprsingly flexing isnt that bad its mainly the electric supply a 750 cca battery just isnt going to get the job done with the car off when each amp is pulling upwards of 300 amps. my reactive load was up around 1.4 after impedence rise so the amp was producing about 5600 watts.
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William from NOLA
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Post by William from NOLA »

Oh, okay, then it is your electricals. Yea, definately MAKE that battery fit :)
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sinister audio
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Post by sinister audio »

if you copied everything from the 1 sub to the 2 sub system you should of added 6dbs but thats kinda hard to get it exactly right. you should of seen a 3-4db jump with no problem.
Bwcad1
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Post by Bwcad1 »

yea thats how i know my electricle system was lacking not only that but i had to take a small hit in air space from 4 to 3.75
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Ryan from Ohio
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Post by Ryan from Ohio »

You know you can probably get a much higher score with a 12" MT in a proper box?

Also if all you got is one somewhat questionable battery up front, thats not helping you.
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Bwcad1
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Post by Bwcad1 »

lol ryan you are the king of obvious! lol although i dont really think you can get much higher than a 151 with a 12, i did do a 151 with my single 15. this was a test for things to come in the jimmy ;) . the battery insnt questionable it does what is is supposed to but u cant expect 650 amps from a small battery like that. i will be dropping to street c for the rest of the year.
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