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Class A/B not so good for subs?
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CaptainPioneer
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Class A/B not so good for subs?
Ok i have run a Hifonics Titan in my friends car once and it was class A/B and that was a superhot little amp... Then it fried one of the channels and he was pissed off..
I know A/Bs run with higher power demand but does this decrease the life of them when compared to a Class D???
I currently have my Hifonics Brutus (which is broken) and it really drives my subs very nicely...
But considering the cost of replacement or repair Im wondering if its a good idea to pick up an Autotek SM2 1000?
I know A/Bs run with higher power demand but does this decrease the life of them when compared to a Class D???
I currently have my Hifonics Brutus (which is broken) and it really drives my subs very nicely...
But considering the cost of replacement or repair Im wondering if its a good idea to pick up an Autotek SM2 1000?
COR UNUM VIA UNA - Jay Chmura
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CaptainPioneer
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Ryan from Ohio
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Class a/b is not as efficient as class d. Inefficiency is burned off by heat.
I would let Bill look at your amp first before buying new.
I would let Bill look at your amp first before buying new.
-Ryan
www.caraudiocentral.net - Your #1 Car Audio Resource on the Net!
www.caraudiocentral.net - Your #1 Car Audio Resource on the Net!
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CaptainPioneer
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CaptainPioneer
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- MobileAudio219
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I think that with 95% of installs youre not going to notice a difference between a/b class amps and d class amps.
Now I'm not saying that there isnt a difference in sq, there is, but most installs arent good enough to reflect it.
A great installer will get better results with a class d running the subs then your average dyi will with a class a/b.
Now I'm not saying that there isnt a difference in sq, there is, but most installs arent good enough to reflect it.
A great installer will get better results with a class d running the subs then your average dyi will with a class a/b.
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CaptainPioneer
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well my setup is pretty bulletproof. I have a distro-block at the battery with an inline on my 0 gauge that i have... Also have my ground to Chassis... but yea the only weak part of my system is my damn alternator... which I am a little conscerned about because i know when i run at 1 ohm with my Hifonics and im pushing hard... I notice a slight dim.
COR UNUM VIA UNA - Jay Chmura
I have to disagree, the installer doesn't make the amp sound better, its the rest of the install that makes the SYSTEM sound better.MobileAudio219 wrote: A great installer will get better results with a class d running the subs then your average dyi will with a class a/b.
Now swap that class d for a class a or class ab, and see if you here a difference.
My S10 was AB all the way around.
My first install on the accord was ab and d
My new install is all ab, and in my opinion the ab does sound better. I know swapping subs helped a lot, but I'm sure some of that has to be amp.
I guess I will know for sure in a couple weeks. I'm putting my W7 and 1000/1 in a friends car. So I can audition them side by side.
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CaptainPioneer
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