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Class A/B not so good for subs?

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CaptainPioneer
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Class A/B not so good for subs?

Post by CaptainPioneer »

Ok i have run a Hifonics Titan in my friends car once and it was class A/B and that was a superhot little amp... Then it fried one of the channels and he was pissed off..

I know A/Bs run with higher power demand but does this decrease the life of them when compared to a Class D???

I currently have my Hifonics Brutus (which is broken) and it really drives my subs very nicely...

But considering the cost of replacement or repair Im wondering if its a good idea to pick up an Autotek SM2 1000?
COR UNUM VIA UNA - Jay Chmura
CaptainPioneer
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Post by CaptainPioneer »

no one? I know im an idiot but im thinking the Autotek might be a better idea.
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Ryan from Ohio
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Post by Ryan from Ohio »

Class a/b is not as efficient as class d. Inefficiency is burned off by heat.


I would let Bill look at your amp first before buying new.
-Ryan
www.caraudiocentral.net - Your #1 Car Audio Resource on the Net!
CaptainPioneer
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Post by CaptainPioneer »

Yea thats what i was going to do... Im just wondering though because my amp is great... I love it but still is their anything wrong with running A/B? I also hear cleaner delivery is a positive to a/b
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JeremyC
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Post by JeremyC »

Nope nothing wrong with running A/B, I actually prefer it in my setups.

I have ran both, and the A/B just seems to sound better. Sure you loose more power to heat, but thats any easy trade off when your top priority is SQ.
CaptainPioneer
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Post by CaptainPioneer »

Well I am moving toward SQ for my Camry so maybe I will go with that
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MobileAudio219
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Post by MobileAudio219 »

I think that with 95% of installs youre not going to notice a difference between a/b class amps and d class amps.

Now I'm not saying that there isnt a difference in sq, there is, but most installs arent good enough to reflect it.

A great installer will get better results with a class d running the subs then your average dyi will with a class a/b.
CaptainPioneer
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Post by CaptainPioneer »

well my setup is pretty bulletproof. I have a distro-block at the battery with an inline on my 0 gauge that i have... Also have my ground to Chassis... but yea the only weak part of my system is my damn alternator... which I am a little conscerned about because i know when i run at 1 ohm with my Hifonics and im pushing hard... I notice a slight dim.
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JeremyC
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Post by JeremyC »

MobileAudio219 wrote: A great installer will get better results with a class d running the subs then your average dyi will with a class a/b.
I have to disagree, the installer doesn't make the amp sound better, its the rest of the install that makes the SYSTEM sound better.

Now swap that class d for a class a or class ab, and see if you here a difference.

My S10 was AB all the way around.

My first install on the accord was ab and d

My new install is all ab, and in my opinion the ab does sound better. I know swapping subs helped a lot, but I'm sure some of that has to be amp.

I guess I will know for sure in a couple weeks. I'm putting my W7 and 1000/1 in a friends car. So I can audition them side by side.
CaptainPioneer
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Post by CaptainPioneer »

well i Think i will go with the A/B im just worried about heat issues thats all...

Jeremy are there any tricks with cooling you could suggest?
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