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Advice for the car audio enthusiast

Post all your general car audio questions here.
Jonathan
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Advice for the car audio enthusiast

Post by Jonathan »

Information from some of the best in the business

http://www.ehow.com/tips_3681.html

:lgh

Note to all those that are new to car audio:

This is NOT good advice. In fact, most of what you see on that link is horrible advice, and you should not take this to heart or repeat it to anyone, anywhere, at any time.
sinister audio
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Post by sinister audio »

are they doing that for a joke or are they just that stupid?
smoker
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Post by smoker »

10" subs are good because they play a little deeper then a 12" sub, but a 12" sub plays a little louder than a 10" sub. If you put subs in your truck, I recommend putting 10" subs in a enclosure with sound filling. It makes the subs sound deeper.
The smaller the sub, the faster it can change frequencies.
The only thing that will kill speakers is overpowering them, not underpowering them or distortion!
distort all you want then?
Jonathan
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Post by Jonathan »

The distortion part is true anyway. You can't kill a speaker with distortion, you have to exceed either the thermal or mechanical limits of the driver in question. You can clip the bejesus out of an amp and not kill a speaker as long as it's thermal and mechanical limits aren't surpassed.
If you have loud bass and can't hear the words, that's where tweeters come in. The tweeters give that nice, crisp, "CLAP" sound so you can actually hear the words while having the feel of the bass
*Thinks of that hooptie-box Caprice Classic blasting it's way through the ghetto*-Boom, tick-tick-tick-tick, BOOM!
I recently bought a 900 watt 1 ohm amplifier. People (especially car audio employees) said, "No. No. A 4 ohm is safer, blah, blah." And hey, maybe it is, if you have cheap speakers. I'm so happy with my 1 ohm. It hits the frequencies better than any other amp I've heard. Ever! I've blown two 10 ohms already. That means my amp is awesome and I need to stop being cheap with the speakers and get a hard core dvc 12 (or something). Take it from me, 1 ohm is unbeatable. Expensive, but well worth it.
Get a 1 ohm amp, regardless of cost. It's the BEST!
This is a good thing to know if you have subwoofers. You can easily mount a plate in front of of the subwoofers which will conduct the air and the sound flow. You will have a clearer and louder bass, and you might save some room in your trunk.
I want to see that system :D . Who would have thought, a plate that redirects sub energy into the cabin! Bass is directional after all!
When putting subs in your trunk it's not a very good idea to have 15's. I would try to fit 12's, but 10's might have to do.
Interesting...
Amplify and crossover. Give it the power it was created for and send it to the right place. Music should be crisp, short, and fast on the high side and deep, long, and slow on the low side.
The "right place"? Like making sure power doesn't shunt to the power antenna motor? :lgh That SQ definition....wow.
When you wire you system, you shouldn't cross the wires or have them tangled up. If they are tangled, it could cause a kink in the wire and you could lose power to your subs. Try to hide the wires as best as you can, because looks do matter."
Just like a water hose :lgh If you're working in your trunk and want to stop your subs from getting power for a sec, just kink the wire and it'll stop current flow :D
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Post by High Society »

You need to look at the total RMS wattage before you look at the MAX wattage because you can ruin a speaker faster under powering it faster than over powering it
HAHA, I always hate when my sub blows when I turn down the volume :argh
I would definately recommend against wiring two 8 ohm subwoofers in parallel, although it can be done. The much preferred solution is to buy a proper amp with two outputs and wire each individually. That provides for better quality sound.
since when did ohm rating tell you how a sub sounds??
When putting subs in your trunk it's not a very good idea to have 15's. I would try to fit 12's, but 10's might have to do.
Umm.......why the hell would anyone listen to this BS.
10" subs are good because they play a little deeper then a 12" sub, but a 12" sub plays a little louder than a 10" sub. If you put subs in your truck, I recommend putting 10" subs in a enclosure with sound filling. It makes the subs sound deeper.
:help:
Don't expect good quality for less than $125 a subwoofer
I think Ryan the RE-tard could answer this :)
my 1 ohm. It hits the frequencies better than any other amp I've heard. Ever! I've blown two 10 ohms already. That means my amp is awesome and I need to stop being cheap with the speakers and get a hard core dvc 12 (or something). Take it from me, 1 ohm is unbeatable. Expensive, but well worth it.
Right blowin subs whens your amp is awesome :thumbsup

How to get more bass from your speakers icey
This is a good thing to know if you have subwoofers. You can easily mount a plate in front of of the subwoofers which will conduct the air and the sound flow
So will a dinner plate work for this?
Don't worry about a capacitor for your headlights. Get a capacitor for sound quality. Holding long bass notes takes a lot of power. Without a capacitor, the bass starts to sound like it's dribbling. With a capacitor, the bass is one constant note. If you're into sound quality, the difference is huge.


You just cracked the mystery of the CAPS, I better go out and buy one now!
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High Society
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Post by High Society »

You need to look at the total RMS wattage before you look at the MAX wattage because you can ruin a speaker faster under powering it faster than over powering it
HAHA, I always hate when my sub blows when I turn down the volume :argh
I would definately recommend against wiring two 8 ohm subwoofers in parallel, although it can be done. The much preferred solution is to buy a proper amp with two outputs and wire each individually. That provides for better quality sound.
since when did ohm rating tell you how a sub sounds??
When putting subs in your trunk it's not a very good idea to have 15's. I would try to fit 12's, but 10's might have to do.
Umm.......why the hell would anyone listen to this BS.
10" subs are good because they play a little deeper then a 12" sub, but a 12" sub plays a little louder than a 10" sub. If you put subs in your truck, I recommend putting 10" subs in a enclosure with sound filling. It makes the subs sound deeper.
:help:
Don't expect good quality for less than $125 a subwoofer
I think Ryan the RE-tard could answer this :)
my 1 ohm. It hits the frequencies better than any other amp I've heard. Ever! I've blown two 10 ohms already. That means my amp is awesome and I need to stop being cheap with the speakers and get a hard core dvc 12 (or something). Take it from me, 1 ohm is unbeatable. Expensive, but well worth it.
Right blowin subs whens your amp is awesome :thumbsup

How to get more bass from your speakers icey
This is a good thing to know if you have subwoofers. You can easily mount a plate in front of of the subwoofers which will conduct the air and the sound flow
So will a dinner plate work for this?
Don't worry about a capacitor for your headlights. Get a capacitor for sound quality. Holding long bass notes takes a lot of power. Without a capacitor, the bass starts to sound like it's dribbling. With a capacitor, the bass is one constant note. If you're into sound quality, the difference is huge.


You just cracked the mystery of the CAPS, I better go out and buy one now!
♠ Mateo ♠

80 pounds of Titanium
Proud Member of Team Wolfpack Audio
audiobass10
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Post by audiobass10 »

It's funny though..a lot of people do think 12" subs play deeper or lower than a 10". Differences in Enclosure design, Inductance and Transient response is unknown to most of the "car audio enthusiasts" heh.
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Post by lotas »

Wow....but I assume the underpowering comment deals with underpowering a sub, therefore turning up the gain/volume to compensate, therefore clipping the amp and sending a clipped signal to the sub damaging it.

I'm puzzled though Jon by your comment because someone on this board once told me the only way a speaker can damage is from distortion. Is your statement correct because you can send a clipped signal to a speaker but that doesn't mean it will exceed those driver's limits, BUT most of the time it will? And that's why distortion will damage a speaker?
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Post by JeremyC »

Keep in mind lotus that a square wave can peak at well over the amps RMS rating. So if you have a 300 watts RMS amp on a 300 watt RMS sub, and you drive it into clipping it can, and will hurt the sub. Now if you have a 1000 watt sub hooked to a 300 watt RMS amp, and you drive it into clipping the sub should be able to handle the clipped siginal, without the voice coil reaching its thermal limit.

Getting more complicated, if you have a 300 watt RMS amp, hooked to a 400 watt RMS sub, and the amp sends a cliped siginal grater than 400 watts to the sub, than you could excede the thermal limits of the sub, damaging it with an amp with a smaler RMS rating.

EDIT: Or to answer your question with the simple answer it needed............................YES
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Post by GlassWolf »

I agree with Jon for the most part, although I have seen a number of subs damaged by clipping without going beyond the thermal or mech limits of the speaker. This mainly happens when the sub loses linearity with a square wave input, and the coil gets shredded along the inside of the magnet. The other way you can kill the speaker is technically by surpassing the mechanical limits while still underpowering the sub, and that's by unloading the sub by lack of a narrow band notch filter or IFS on bandpass and ported enclosures, respectively.
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