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Boss Audio OL3KD

All questions related to amplifier installation and troubleshooting.
nezzie09
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Boss Audio OL3KD

Post by nezzie09 »

I'm buying my first car(1987 Camaro) and want to add subs. Right now I have a Powerbass M-Series 12D sub sitting in my room that I'm going to hook up until I decide on a set of subs.
I'm COMPLETELY new to car audio and have a few questions.
1) If I buy a Boss Audio OL3KD(class D, RMS: 1150-2200) and hook up my Powerbass sub(700 Max power, DVC 4 ohm) to it will my sub be destroyed?
2) If so, what amp should I buy to allow me to use my current sub, AND allow me to upgrade to 2 better subs later.
3) What is the most power I can hook up to my car without needing an additional battery and a better alt?
*I am very mechanically inclined, I am just not familiar with car audio.
My goal is to upgrade to a system that will be heard down the street, without costing me an arm and a leg :)
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MobileAudio219
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Post by MobileAudio219 »

nezzie09 wrote:I'm buying my first car(1987 Camaro) and want to add subs. Right now I have a Powerbass M-Series 12D sub sitting in my room that I'm going to hook up until I decide on a set of subs.
I'm COMPLETELY new to car audio and have a few questions.
1) If I buy a Boss Audio OL3KD(class D, RMS: 1150-2200) and hook up my Powerbass sub(700 Max power, DVC 4 ohm) to it will my sub be destroyed?
2) If so, what amp should I buy to allow me to use my current sub, AND allow me to upgrade to 2 better subs later.
3) What is the most power I can hook up to my car without needing an additional battery and a better alt?
*I am very mechanically inclined, I am just not familiar with car audio.
My goal is to upgrade to a system that will be heard down the street, without costing me an arm and a leg :)
1. I would stay away from boss, they don't have very good products. The amp probably doesn't put out anywhere close to rated power. You could wire the sub to 8 ohms and it'd get around 550 watts (pretending the boss amps isn't way over rated.)

2. There's a lot of good budget amps out there (hifonics, Autotek, american bass, etc.) Find one that put out around 350 at 8 ohms and that's one ohm stable (for feature upgrades.)

3. What kind of car do you have? It depends, some cars come out with 50 amp alternators, some come out with 150 amp ones.
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Ryan from Ohio
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Post by Ryan from Ohio »

1) Dont buy that amp, its a piece of crap.

2) Theres many good amps out there, a budget needs to be set first to help factor out whats to much.

3) Depend son what alternator is in it. Also if you are buying an amp you can upgrade your sub capabilities with, you must consider what you final result will be.
-Ryan
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sinister audio
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Post by sinister audio »

I guess you can get shitty sounding equipment if all you want is for people to hear you down the street.
nezzie09
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Post by nezzie09 »

MobileAudio219 wrote:1. I would stay away from boss, they don't have very good products. The amp probably doesn't put out anywhere close to rated power. You could wire the sub to 8 ohms and it'd get around 550 watts (pretending the boss amps isn't way over rated.)
2. There's a lot of good budget amps out there (hifonics, Autotek, american bass, etc.) Find one that put out around 350 at 8 ohms and that's one ohm stable (for feature upgrades.)
3. What kind of car do you have? It depends, some cars come out with 50 amp alternators, some come out with 150 amp ones.

I said right off the bat, 1987 Camaro.. It's a V6.

I'm not looking to spend too much on the amp. I found that one for about $200.

And i dont want crap quality. I want it to be loud, AND good quality sound.
nezzie09
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Post by nezzie09 »

Also, would a mono amp be the better choice? Or should I go with a 2-channel or something?
Ryan from Ohio
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Post by Ryan from Ohio »

Your more than likely going to find more power at a cheaper price with a Class D amp.

These amps also waste less power to make power, which is probably a good thing for your situation.

If you would like I can see what amps I carry that will work for you and PM you specs/prices.
-Ryan
www.caraudiocentral.net - Your #1 Car Audio Resource on the Net!
nezzie09
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Joined: Sun Mar 07, 2010 12:16 pm

Post by nezzie09 »

Ryan from Ohio wrote:Your more than likely going to find more power at a cheaper price with a Class D amp.
These amps also waste less power to make power, which is probably a good thing for your situation.
If you would like I can see what amps I carry that will work for you and PM you specs/prices.
Any specific brand names you would suggest for the amp?
Ryan from Ohio
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Post by Ryan from Ohio »

Ok Im looking at the Boss amp...

They are claiming 1,100 WRMS x 1 @ 4 Ohms. They are also claiming the amp is stable to 1 Ohm, with a MAX power of 3,000 Watts @1 Ohm.

I smell crappy amp.

Why?

Well lets start with the obvious. Max power is useless. In this case though, its entertaining. 3,000 watts max- @ 1 ohm. Yet the amp produces 1,100 WRMS @ 4 ohm?

Going by relative terms, 1,100 WRMS @ 4 ohms = 4,400 WRMS @ 1 ohm...

The less obvious...

2 35 amp fuses...

70 x 13.8 Volts x 80% efficiency = 773 WRMS. Thats the feasible WRMS of that amp, just so you know. That number may actually be high... maybe low...

At any rate, that amps a gimmick. Especially at $239 which is what i found it for @ Dealercostaudio Buying that amp is like throwing $200+ out your car window. Thats the honest truth.

Anyhow...

Given your sub and it sounds like you want to add another in the future, I would look for something that puts out 1,000-800 WRMS @ 1 Ohm. Your car will be able to support this providing you do a Big 3 wiring Upgrade.

I have 3 amps that will work and fit into your budget. I have a 4th amp over your budget that will work also...
-Ryan
www.caraudiocentral.net - Your #1 Car Audio Resource on the Net!
nezzie09
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Post by nezzie09 »

How about the Hifonics BXI 1210D or the Hifonics HFi1000D?
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