Car Audio Central - Ultimate Car Audio Forum and Community

To Anyone Who Can Help,

I am trying to connect a Kenwood KAC-6104D Class D Mono Power Amplifier 600 watt peak (300 watts RMS @ 2 ohms OR 200 watts RMS @ 4 ohms) to a single Memphis Audio Power Reference (250 watt RMS/500 watt Peak) DVC (4ohm + 4ohm) sub woofer. I would like to connect the subs in parrallel so I can take the impedence down to 2 ohms and get the most power out of the amp. I have tried 3 different wiring configurations and I can't get my amp to turn on. It is a brand new amp and I know the power, ground, remote, and signal wires are all connected properly. I believe the amps protection circuitry is coming on because I don't have the sub woofer connected correctly. CAN SOMEONE PLEASE HELP ME?

Thanks,

EvileyeJ

Hi,

Its fairly straight forward.

Take the sub and hook both positives together, both negatives together.

That will run to your amp then, bridged. Your amp should be marked where the wires go.

The power will be 12V right off the battery.

The remote will be a switched 12V source- from HU or other.

The ground MUST be a solid piece of metal directly connected to the main frame/unibody of the vehicle. It must be a GOOD GROUND. Clean/clear of rust, paint and debris.

Of course you need Input to the amp to get output

disconnect the sub, see if the amp comes out of protect is the first thing i would do, and how did you manage 3 different wireing configurations if the only way to correctly wire is series, or parallel?

Series parallel or each coil to a channel on a 2 channel

First of all, Thanks for all of the help you guys. I have done EVERYTHING and still can't get the amp to turn on. My only guess is, when I had an amp connected before, I blue the fuse that I connected to the head units (Remote Amp Turn On) and the amplifier itself. Does anyone think I may have have damaged the head units Remote Turn On Lead?

just jump across from power on the amp to remote if the amp turns on then your problem is remote. if not then your problem is in your power wire's some where or the amp is toast

best bet- just get a cheap digital multi-meter (harbor freight has them for 3 or 4 bucks) home depot has some for a little bit more. Check to see if your getting 12 volts across the batt+ and ground, and remote+ and ground, if not thats why. Then go through and check all the fuses for resistivity, i've had cases of the glass- barrel type fuses blowing but showing no visual indication that its blown

Thanks you guys for all the help. My problem ended up being a bad fuse. Although it did not LOOK blown, it was. I appreciate all of the responses and look forward to tapping into your knowledge in the future.

Sincerely,

EvileyeJ

EvileyeJ wrote:Thanks you guys for all the help. My problem ended up being a bad fuse. Although it did not LOOK blown, it was. I appreciate all of the responses and look forward to tapping into your knowledge in the future.
Sincerely,
EvileyeJ

Exactly why AGU fuses suck! lol