Attention all members!
Have a cool ride? Then show it off on our website! All vehicles welcome!
Have a cool ride? Then show it off on our website! All vehicles welcome!
Kenwood KAC-6104D AND Memphis Audio DVC (4ohm +4ohm) Sub Woofer
Kenwood KAC-6104D AND Memphis Audio DVC (4ohm +4ohm) Sub Woofer
To Anyone Who Can Help,
I am trying to connect a Kenwood KAC-6104D Class D Mono Power Amplifier 600 watt peak (300 watts RMS @ 2 ohms OR 200 watts RMS @ 4 ohms) to a single Memphis Audio Power Reference (250 watt RMS/500 watt Peak) DVC (4ohm + 4ohm) sub woofer. I would like to connect the subs in parrallel so I can take the impedence down to 2 ohms and get the most power out of the amp. I have tried 3 different wiring configurations and I can't get my amp to turn on. It is a brand new amp and I know the power, ground, remote, and signal wires are all connected properly. I believe the amps protection circuitry is coming on because I don't have the sub woofer connected correctly. CAN SOMEONE PLEASE HELP ME?
Thanks,
EvileyeJ
I am trying to connect a Kenwood KAC-6104D Class D Mono Power Amplifier 600 watt peak (300 watts RMS @ 2 ohms OR 200 watts RMS @ 4 ohms) to a single Memphis Audio Power Reference (250 watt RMS/500 watt Peak) DVC (4ohm + 4ohm) sub woofer. I would like to connect the subs in parrallel so I can take the impedence down to 2 ohms and get the most power out of the amp. I have tried 3 different wiring configurations and I can't get my amp to turn on. It is a brand new amp and I know the power, ground, remote, and signal wires are all connected properly. I believe the amps protection circuitry is coming on because I don't have the sub woofer connected correctly. CAN SOMEONE PLEASE HELP ME?
Thanks,
EvileyeJ
-
Ryan from Ohio
- Posts: 13308
- Joined: Fri Mar 17, 2000 12:00 pm
- Contact:
Hi,
Its fairly straight forward.
Take the sub and hook both positives together, both negatives together.
That will run to your amp then, bridged. Your amp should be marked where the wires go.
The power will be 12V right off the battery.
The remote will be a switched 12V source- from HU or other.
The ground MUST be a solid piece of metal directly connected to the main frame/unibody of the vehicle. It must be a GOOD GROUND. Clean/clear of rust, paint and debris.
Of course you need Input to the amp to get output
Its fairly straight forward.
Take the sub and hook both positives together, both negatives together.
That will run to your amp then, bridged. Your amp should be marked where the wires go.
The power will be 12V right off the battery.
The remote will be a switched 12V source- from HU or other.
The ground MUST be a solid piece of metal directly connected to the main frame/unibody of the vehicle. It must be a GOOD GROUND. Clean/clear of rust, paint and debris.
Of course you need Input to the amp to get output
-Ryan
www.caraudiocentral.net - Your #1 Car Audio Resource on the Net!
www.caraudiocentral.net - Your #1 Car Audio Resource on the Net!
-
loudwagon15s
- Senior Member
- Posts: 888
- Joined: Fri Oct 06, 2006 3:58 pm
- Location: Melbourne, Florida
- Contact:
First of all, Thanks for all of the help you guys. I have done EVERYTHING and still can't get the amp to turn on. My only guess is, when I had an amp connected before, I blue the fuse that I connected to the head units (Remote Amp Turn On) and the amplifier itself. Does anyone think I may have have damaged the head units Remote Turn On Lead?
-
loudwagon15s
- Senior Member
- Posts: 888
- Joined: Fri Oct 06, 2006 3:58 pm
- Location: Melbourne, Florida
- Contact:
best bet- just get a cheap digital multi-meter (harbor freight has them for 3 or 4 bucks) home depot has some for a little bit more. Check to see if your getting 12 volts across the batt+ and ground, and remote+ and ground, if not thats why. Then go through and check all the fuses for resistivity, i've had cases of the glass- barrel type fuses blowing but showing no visual indication that its blown

