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Its all in the way you wire it, and what you want in the end. Typically you wouldn't wire a sub to 8 ohm, unless your amp was to big, and you wanted to cut down on the output.

Hey fellas (and gals if any) I understand wiring DVC's, I put that in my original post in this thread (there is no way I'm presenting a 4ohm load so I omitted that).

Also, I will get more watts for cheaper at lower ohm load. As I posted if I go with Hifonics or an old kicker amp (past model) that are both stable at 1 ohm (including other brands), it would be/IS cheaper. Look at amp ratings, the lower the ohm load the more watts it puts out (exceptions such as JL and some PG models are noted, but I wrote neither of these brands).

So....

I have some knowledge already and with my research, I have not seen anyone make a good argument against a lesser ohm load.

I know there is more distortion (but we are talking class D amps on subs) and more stress on the amp....but practically speaking, that doesn't mean anything. Can anyone claim to hear the difference? I ran a Hifonics for 3 years at 1ohm with no problems and few keep the same amp for that long anyhow.

I read all these sources about resistence and load (i.e. distortion n stress) but it doesn't seem to mean much....practically. I am not sure though, that is why I ask...

Thanks anymore feedback...much appreciated

Search on Ebay for an Orion 250hcca. It is one ohm stable and you are getting about 1200w out of it and it is truly designed to go that low. Some amps claim to be one ohm stable, but few are truly High Current amplifiers.

Also, yes some amps double power when impedance drops, but they also use more current from your alternator. If you are serious about running a high current amp, better strengthen your charging system too while you are at it.

A high power amp, on the other hand, will give you straight power, without the worry of overheating due to excessive impedance drops, with minimal distortion.

The reason I am trying to sway your decision on buying a high current as opposed to a high power, is that I own an Audison LRx1.400. The amp puts out about 340w @4ohm, at 2ohm, it is about 700w, at 1ohm it is 900w. I have had nothing but problems with this amp at that low of an impedance. It overheats way to quickly, and shuts down promptly. I had to buy a new sub that was 4ohm DVC so I can get the 2 ohm load and now it works perfectly. I am not worried about is it louder, cause I would have to have about 1400w to get 3 db, so that isn't an issue. The real issue is that the amplifier doesn't get a hot, it is more reliable, and audibly, you can't tell it has 200 less watts.


I competed back in the 90's with a "cheater amp" setup. 3 Orion 225hcca's.

I found that if an amp is rated 2ohm stable, it is better to run it at 4ohm,
If the amp is 1 ohm stable, it is better to run it at 2ohms.
If the amp is 1/2ohm stable, run it at 1 ohm
and like my 225's, if they are 1/4ohm stable, run them at 1/2ohm.

OnYrMrk wrote:Search on Ebay for an Orion 250hcca. It is one ohm stable and you are getting about 1200w out of it and it is truly designed to go that low. Some amps claim to be one ohm stable, but few are truly High Current amplifiers.
Also, yes some amps double power when impedance drops, but they also use more current from your alternator. If you are serious about running a high current amp, better strengthen your charging system too while you are at it.
A high power amp, on the other hand, will give you straight power, without the worry of overheating due to excessive impedance drops, with minimal distortion.
The reason I am trying to sway your decision on buying a high current as opposed to a high power, is that I own an Audison LRx1.400. The amp puts out about 340w @4ohm, at 2ohm, it is about 700w, at 1ohm it is 900w. I have had nothing but problems with this amp at that low of an impedance. It overheats way to quickly, and shuts down promptly. I had to buy a new sub that was 4ohm DVC so I can get the 2 ohm load and now it works perfectly. I am not worried about is it louder, cause I would have to have about 1400w to get 3 db, so that isn't an issue. The real issue is that the amplifier doesn't get a hot, it is more reliable, and audibly, you can't tell it has 200 less watts.
I competed back in the 90's with a "cheater amp" setup. 3 Orion 225hcca's.
I found that if an amp is rated 2ohm stable, it is better to run it at 4ohm,
If the amp is 1 ohm stable, it is better to run it at 2ohms.
If the amp is 1/2ohm stable, run it at 1 ohm
and like my 225's, if they are 1/4ohm stable, run them at 1/2ohm.

Cool. That's really helpful and makes sense. Now I have to decide how much money I am willing to part ways with...

so the higher the ohm load the more stress right? or vise versa

why not consider a bridgeable amp? my elevation is 4 x 125 @ 4ohms or 2 x 500 @ 4 ohms bridged. there are alot of amps that produce similar numbers to this as well, just another option to throw out there, joe, jeremy and the other guys already said everything else.

edit: so you could run the 4 ohm vr's at 4 ohms with all the power you need given you find an amp that matches the power needed

JL Man wrote:so the higher the ohm load the more stress right? or vise versa

No the lower...Thats why you see ratings like
75w @ 4ohm
150w @ 2ohm
etc

The lower the load the more stress because the amp has to give more power, in turn pulling more current from your electrical system.

Remember ohms is resistence...so the more resistence the less current. (potential difference/volts) = (current)(resistence in ohms). V = IR

I have to also add that more resistence yields better sound quality. I need to read why this is...

I believe it has to do with driver control.