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channels (75 watts each) and turned up they slam.

Wow, give the power those things deserve. You will hear an incredible amount of difference when you gett 300 or so rms on them things.

http://www.caraudiocentral.net/forums/s ... d.php?t=41

Take a look at this to btw

thanks for the link, yeah i know, thats why i'm looking for an amp, i'm really leaning towards the hifonics brutus 600, and just hope it puts out 600 at the volts my car gives out.

a lesser ohm load will put less stress on the amp.

Darthness wrote:a lesser ohm load will put less stress on the amp.

I've read that before but practically speaking, how does that matter. That is the whole purpose of this thread. People also say that there is more distortion.

If I am buying a good amp (Kicker, new model HiFonics, MTX) how does that matter especially when few keep their systems long? Does it matter?

I ran a HiFonics at 1 ohm for 3 years before it did some gymnastics with me and my car not too long ago (so it's dead).

From all the feedback I've been getting it doesn't seem like it matters, i.e. for the brands I'm looking at I should power my subs at 1ohm and save some money....

Thanks though for the feedback...still seeking anyone who can make an argument, if there is one, to avoid lower ohm load...

Sonso, I think that if you have 2 4ohm subs, the only way you can go is either 2ohm load (bridged mono), 8ohm load (series) or 4ohm load (utilizing one woofer for each channel). You won't get a 1ohm load out of two 4ohm woofers.

2nd, to find a 1 ohm stable amplifier, it will not necessarily be a cheap venture. When you get max power at 4ohms, you are running a "high power" amplifier, when you get max power at 1ohm, you are running a "high current" amplifier. At least this seemed like the unwritten rule a few years ago.

Third, buy an amp that has a good reputation about overheating protection at sub 2ohm loads too. Notice I am not mentioning manufacturers here cause I don't want to step on any toes.

IMO Bottom Line, get an amp that makes max power at 2 ohms. That way you keep costs down from buying a high current amp, and you can get 4ohm SVCs which also cost less. If you are considering a budget system. --Joe

High Society wrote:Which adds up to big $$$$ If I could take back all the money I ever spent on this...Man I'd be rich, but F that, I wanna be heard :)

Same... i could of gone to best buy and get the Dual sub, amp, and box deal for $200 and then spend another $70 on a radio and and 4 speakers (free with purcahse of radio a few years ago) and be satisified. but its just not as fun.. i'd proably have another 2 grand in the bank :) (doesn't seem like i've put that much into it, but its close.)

OnYrMrk wrote:Sonso, I think that if you have 2 4ohm subs, the only way you can go is either 2ohm load (bridged mono), 8ohm load (series) or 4ohm load (utilizing one woofer for each channel). You won't get a 1ohm load out of two 4ohm woofers. --Joe

hey joe, the comp vrs he had said he wanted are dual 4 ohm, i thought dual 4 ohm makes a 1 ohm load. so couldn't he get a hifonics bx1000d and be good to go. the amp only cost 240 for 1000w rms. right? not too sure if i am?

No it depends oh how you wire it. A single sub with dual 4 ohm coils can be wired at 2 or 8 ohms. 2 subs with dual 4 ohm coils can be wired at 1, 4, 8, or 16 ohms.

yeah i knew you could get 1 and 4 out of 2 dual 4s, but i didn't know about 8 and 16, they don't make amps that do that tho do they?