help me design false floor/box

[Fishy]

Ya, remember enclosure size is a selling point.

-Fishy

[lotas]

well guys I did winISD and it says .939 ft^3. RE said .8 ft ^ 3.

So I guess Im gonna go for around that, that does seem very very small, is that right? or did I do something wrong?

I will have 1200watts going to it, if it matters.

[Fishy]

If you only got .939 ft^3 with WinISD(Qtc=.707?) then .8 ft^3 sounds about right.

I just ran it through WinISD alpha(0.50a7) and it gave me 1.234 ft^3(Qtc=.703).

The alpha version computes things a lil differently than the older beta version(0.44). Lemme load those TS parameters into the beta version and see what happens.

Yeah I got .939 ft^3(Qtc=.71) with the beta version as well and the alpha version yielded a Qtc of .762 with .94 ft^3. Of the two results I'm not entirely sure which one is more accurate. The alpha version should be, especially when utilizing DVC drivers as manufacturer specs can get pretty confusing in this case(BL depends on how VC's are wired for example) . It automatically checks for erroneous entries when loading the TS parameters, but being an alpha version it may still have a few bugs.

Regardless, using a box that is slightly smaller than what WinISD recommends might be ok in your case. You'll get a lil better mechanical power handling and since you're gonna have that box in the trunk the upper bass frequencies should get filtered out a bit more so the box won't be as "ringy" as it would be say in an SUV. I really don't like the way my 10w3's sound in JL's recommended sealed enclosure in my Explorer, but they might sound great in your ride.

I'd just build that box as big as space will allow, within reason of course. Not much you can do if your box is too small, but you can always throw in a few bricks if its too big.

:)

-Fishy

[note] Sorry, this probably wasn't much help. The best thing would be to find someone who's used that XXX in .8 ft^3 in a trunk. :P

[lotas]

If you only got .939 ft^3 with WinISD(Qtc=.707?) then .8 ft^3 sounds about right.

I just ran it through WinISD alpha(0.50a7) and it gave me 1.234 ft^3(Qtc=.703).

The alpha version computes things a lil differently than the older beta version(0.44). Lemme load those TS parameters into the beta version and see what happens.

Yeah I got .939 ft^3(Qtc=.71) with the beta version as well and the alpha version yielded a Qtc of .762 with .94 ft^3. Of the two results I'm not entirely sure which one is more accurate. The alpha version should be, especially when utilizing DVC drivers as manufacturer specs can get pretty confusing in this case(BL depends on how VC's are wired for example) . It automatically checks for erroneous entries when loading the TS parameters, but being an alpha version it may still have a few bugs.

Regardless, using a box that is slightly smaller than what WinISD recommends might be ok in your case. You'll get a lil better mechanical power handling and since you're gonna have that box in the trunk the upper bass frequencies should get filtered out a bit more so the box won't be as "ringy" as it would be say in an SUV. I really don't like the way my 10w3's sound in JL's recommended sealed enclosure in my Explorer, but they might sound great in your ride.

I'd just build that box as big as space will allow, within reason of course. Not much you can do if your box is too small, but you can always throw in a few bricks if its too big.

:)

-Fishy

[note] Sorry, this probably wasn't much help. The best thing would be to find someone who's used that XXX in .8 ft^3 in a trunk. :P

no it was helpful, i appreciate you taking time to do that

how do you find the displacement of a sub again? how do i figure out how much volume it will take up? thanks

[Fishy]

Its usually in the manufacturers specs. If that XXX uses basically the the same motor as a Brahma 12 it'll be about .15 ft^3. I'm surprised RE didn't include that with their TS parameters.

-Fishy

[lotas]

Its usually in the manufacturers specs. If that XXX uses basically the the same motor as a Brahma 12 it'll be about .15 ft^3. I'm surprised RE didn't include that with their TS parameters.

-Fishy

i found on some old thread they said it was .2
so yeah bout same as brahma

[lotas]

my two fans arrived today. I dont really understand how to mount them though... Arent they supposed to be flush mounted in the mdf? How do you flush mount a square...it would just fall through...i must be missing something. Sure they have screw holes in each corner, but i guess I just cant picture how to moutn them, any help?

[JeremyC]

Look at the corners. The larger fans I used, you could remove the corners on one side, (say the front) and then it would drop in and the corners on the other side (the back) would hold it in place. The smaller fans I have used didn't have that ability, so I had to mount them in a more creative way.

Shoot us a pic of them, and it will be easer for us to help you out.

[Fishy]

Most case fans are designed to mount "flush" against a piece of thin metal either in a computer case or power supply and usually come with some funky lookin, plastic grabbin, screws. Cut out a hole in the MDF the size of the fan, build yourself a grill/plate out of a piece of sheet metal slightly larger than the hole, mount the fan to that with the crazy-screws, and then screw the plate/fan assembly into the outside of the MDF.

It shouldn't look too bad.

:)

-Fishy

[JeremyC]

Well your in luck, I checked out your pics and you said your using stinger fans. From what I can see my idea is right. Once you decide the direction you want the fan facing (air blowing in or out) remove the corners from the side that will be facing inside of your box. That way you can drill your hole, slide the fan in, and the outside corners (the face of the fan) will still be there for you to run the screws into.