Equalizer help?

whiteboy · Post by **whiteboy** » Thu Mar 22, 2007 6:42 pm

Beachcrawler wrote:I going to replace the entire factory wiring and run everything off my Infinity 7540a amp. My 6.5 door speakers require 2.8" of depth. I plan to replace the rear 5.25 door speakers with the 7" subs after I apply the dampening mat and foam. I'd like to find a small in-dash EQ with memory. I like the Clarion but I just know that the knobs will get bumped and moved.

looks like u gonna have quite a bit of cutting and fabricating, would love to see the pics as you go..

whiteboy · Post by **whiteboy** » Thu Mar 22, 2007 6:44 pm

ps. have you already removed all the door pannels and everything to see what it looks like under there? if not i can shoot you some pics, i got that one i totalled in my yard still, itll give you an idea of what you have to work with.

Beachcrawler · Post by **Beachcrawler** » Thu Mar 22, 2007 7:06 pm

You are right about the cutting in the rear for the 7" subs and mounting the tweeters in the a-pillars where the stocks are now. Everything else should be easy. I went to a boneyard where they had one with the panels already removed so I have some idea what to expect. The rear doors will be easy to re-wire but the front may require a small hole in the molex. I always take pictures of my crazy mods so pictures won't be a problem. I'm going to start with the back and the suicide doors so I should pictures of the hard part next week.

I'm still working on what to do about total lack of EQ in my head unit. I'm going to install everything and see how I like it. I can always add EQ later. I just want something equal to headunit EQ's. I have a JVC Arsenal kdv6270 with a built in EQ that works just fine in my Grand Cherokee. Any thoughts on the Clarion eqs746 or Kicker kq9?

whiteboy · Post by **whiteboy** » Thu Mar 22, 2007 7:29 pm

i never ran an equalizer so i dont know.

but the front doors arent gonna be a walk in the park either, theyll be easier but not necissarily ez.

for runnigt he wires threw the front, go to the autoparts store and pick up some safety wire, make a hook on 1 end and then hook the wires to it, then wrap it tight in electrical tape, then run the safety wire threw with the stock wires, then grab the end and pull ur speaker wires threw.. nice and ez, not to mention looks clean. also keep in mind with allt he cutting you are gonna eb doing, the frame of the doors are built that way for reason, the bends and everythign are the structure, int he case of an accident, youre door wont be nearly as strong, probably out to get your hands on a buzz box and weld in some reinforcement to those doors.

Beachcrawler · Post by **Beachcrawler** » Fri Mar 23, 2007 1:48 am

Thanks for the wiring and safety tips. I will proceed with caution.

Beachcrawler · Post by **Beachcrawler** » Sun Apr 01, 2007 9:16 am

The speakers are installed. I used a thin coat hanger to fish the wires through the front doors. There was enough space between the two harnesses to pull the wires. The rear was super easy because the harnesses just unplug leaving a 1"x1-1/2" empty molex. I have pictures of everything so me know if you want to see them. The only cutting envolved opening the rear speakers holes 1/4" all around so no structural issues. Thanks again for the help.

cargodz · Post by **cargodz** » Sun Apr 01, 2007 9:32 am

We love to see pics :) wish I could put up more, but my camera keeps pukin out on me (it eats batteries bad)

Beachcrawler · Post by **Beachcrawler** » Sun Apr 01, 2007 11:09 am

I hope you find these pictures and tips helpful. This is how I ran new speaker wires in my 1999 Ram 1500 Extended cab.
The rear doors were super easy because the Molex can be totally removed to run the new wires.

The front doors were a little more work but not too hard. I used a coat hanger. Looking from inside the cab, I found a small space I the bottom right hand corner. You may find a flash light a mirror helpful in locating the space. I bent about ½” of the hanger tip over so would not tear the boot or damage the molex. You can also apply a single band of tape just below the bent. Make sure that you get it as flat as you can before inserting in beside the molex. On the door side, I pulled the boot into the door but not enough to separate it from the truck side. Once the hanger was past the molex inside the boot I lightly pulled on the boot on the door side to straighten the boot ribs so the hanger would slide better. I also bent the hanger every few inches so it follow the path of the boot. Once the leading end of the hanger was in the door, I taped the new speaker wire to the tail end of the hanger and pulled in through the boot. The cut the speaker wire to a point before taping it to the hanger. I started the tape on the hanger and wrapped in onto the new speaker wire. It took less than 5 minutes and is a complete clean install without any cutting and it is weather tight.
Hanger pulled through molex and boot

Hanger through molex inside the door

Good luck. I hope this helps.