Car problem......again

loudwagon15s · Post by **loudwagon15s** » Thu Mar 08, 2007 4:20 pm

depends if you want a high output, or stock, just a VERY rough guess, $200 for a 150 amp mabe?

BryanX33 · Post by **BryanX33** » Thu Mar 08, 2007 5:34 pm

wow fuck.

solacedagony · Post by **solacedagony** » Thu Mar 08, 2007 5:48 pm

Call up Autozone or Advance Auto and they'll be able to tell you how much to get your alt replaced with the same one. Just MAKE SURE you get the battery checked before you start it so you don't lose the alt again.

loudwagon15s · Post by **loudwagon15s** » Thu Mar 08, 2007 6:16 pm

if your alt is bad, local junkyard mabe? I just bought a motor for a good price, no problems

scotts1000rr · Post by **scotts1000rr** » Thu Mar 08, 2007 6:23 pm

you could have your old one rebuilt also

cargodz · Post by **cargodz** » Fri Mar 09, 2007 1:10 am

Definately get the battery checked too

Chris from MI · Post by **Chris from MI** » Fri Mar 09, 2007 3:11 am

What kind of car is this and whats the year?

DO NOT disconnect the battery while the engine is running

I know people out there will say they do it all the time and yada yada but doing so can send a spike over 150 volts through the system, effectivly frying the alternator and or starter, along with your ECU and other stuff like that. Also with some of the newer cars this will throw a code and the car will not stay running even if the alt is good.

I would just pull that alt and battery and run them up to Autozone or whatever and have them check them out for you. Depending on the car, you can have them both out in about 15 minutes and then know what component is bad or that you need to look further into the electrical system. Good luck though.

Post by **GlassWolf** » Fri Mar 09, 2007 5:00 am

the battery is used to start tha car, however if the battery has damaged cells from being drained too low, it will also prevent the car from holding a proper voltage rail.. and you'll see voltages like 11 or 10V.
The alternator does recharge the battery and supplies current to the car when the engine is running above idle RPM.

Here's the catch. If you ahve a newer car, and it sat for a period with a dead battery (similar to having no battery) the ECM in the car may need to be reset. You'll need to contact a dealer to find out if this is the case, but I know my Jeeps were like this, and showed similar behavior to what you're describing after the batteries were left disconnected for any period of time.

Also, your alternator is fine. If that were defective, you'd have a whole other set of symptoms.

BryanX33 · Post by **BryanX33** » Fri Mar 09, 2007 1:28 pm

My car is a 97 Mitsubishi Galant. Me and my father did the same thing today. Jumped it, it kicked over, but it stalls out and shuts off after about a minute. We called up an automechanic that he knows and he said once the car is on, you dont need the battery at all. He said it is probably frozen water in my fuel line, wich is causing gas flow to be cut off, which is why my car stalls out and shuts off. We had to push it about 3.5 miles from my school to my house :/

Post by **GlassWolf** » Sat Mar 10, 2007 10:14 am

put a bottle of dry gas in the fuel tank