A question about dynamat

OnYrMrk · Post by **OnYrMrk** » Sun Dec 17, 2006 4:00 pm

you are correct sir...PeelNSeal is asphalt based.

ZeroAccess · Post by **ZeroAccess** » Sun Dec 17, 2006 4:06 pm

Dang, anyone know of an butyl alternative that is as cheap as peel & seal?

I'm wondering if there is a way of checking which compound the one at my job is. We put it on tractor trailers it holds at speeds of 80mph , waterproof,etc I'm probally going to buy some and put it to the test at home.

geolemon · Post by **geolemon** » Sun Dec 17, 2006 4:16 pm

ZeroAccess wrote:Does that stuff actually work, I was going to use it in my car but read a few articles where it didn't work that well.
I'm not going for competition just don't want to rattle everything to death.

I can get 100ft of that tar tape stuff for like I dunno 10 bucks or so I'd reckon. I need to check into that.

There are two differences:
1) adhesive
2) thickness

It's an asphalt/tar based product, but that's not really a downside - it functions as a dampening product, absorbing vibratory energy.

I've heard some people complain that the adhesive is so weak that it falls off the door, and other people say that theirs works fine. Both those pictures that people posted look like they are very solidly on there, no adhesive problems. Of course, with any damping material, installation technique is critical - see how well both of those are installed in those pictures? Very good.

Some people half-heartedly stick their damping material on, leaving voids between the adhesive and the door... they don't use heat, they don't use rollers or push-sticks, and the result is poor adhesion, or poor longetivity - it's tough to say whether a failure is due to the adhesive or the install technique, but surely a superior "intended for a car" adhesive would help.

Also, the thickness of the material might help. One thick layer is as good as two thin layers, and removes layers of opportunity for adhesive failure.

If you are using it to span holes in a door cavity to create a functional "speaker enclosure" out of your door, it also helps - three layers of thick, true automotive grade damping material product can be pretty rigid and contain sound, where "peel and seal" product isn't going to perform as well - unless you literally layer up five or six layers in that same span.

Personally, I'd rather go for one of the more budget-friendly automotive-intended products over hardware-store products meant for gutters and shingles in a completely different application. I've used Second Skin personally, pretty extensively in two of my vehicles (I bought a huge roll of the old STFU-80 - similar to "Dynamat Extreme", and had good luck with it. Buying the huge bulk roll was also more budget-friendly, given how much I bought (I still have some, as a matter of fact!).

ZeroAccess · Post by **ZeroAccess** » Sun Dec 17, 2006 4:21 pm

I thought about getting some second skin stuff
Spectrum on the floorboard
and Damp Pro on headliner,doors,hatch
I doubt I'll do the firewall that just seems like too much work for a non-competition vehicle.

Probally get Shop Packs and just sell the remainder to someone locally/on the board.

geolemon · Post by **geolemon** » Sun Dec 17, 2006 4:30 pm

ZeroAccess wrote:I'm wondering if there is a way of checking which compound the one at my job is. We put it on tractor trailers it holds at speeds of 80mph , waterproof,etc

Just ask whoever is in the purchasing department (or in charge of purchasing) at your work if they can order you a quantity of it - they may buy in bulk quantities that would really save you money. Your purchasing agent likely buys it from a distributor or industrial supplier that you otherwise don't have access to, and likely in larger quantities than you'd want as well - chances are they wouldn't at all be opposed to placing a slightly larger order for you. Helll, sometimes you may even find that the company is generous, and treats the material as a bulk (ie. non-inventory) material, and might just tell you to "cut a bunch off the roll... no one will notice it, it's off the radar screen". You never know, and it doesn't get better than free - particularly when you were all prepared and made the offer to pay for it.

It sounds like that would be a more suitable product to use than "peel and seal", since it is an automotive-intended product, and seems like it's got a good adhesive to it.

What specifically do you use it FOR at work?

larry117 · Post by **larry117** » Sun Dec 17, 2006 4:34 pm

I used second skin in my car not long ago, great stuff. Great company to deal with. If you join there forum and mention it when you order you get around 10% off.

Scarrell · Post by **Scarrell** » Sun Dec 17, 2006 4:44 pm

to add to the "smell during hot days" thing.. i will disagree on my part.. i did this during hot days, and it did smell when i opened it ofcourse, but when i put it on, it never smelled at all when it got real hot.. so.. i dunno... also i didnt use a roller, i didnt have access to one, but i did push it on there with my hands, fist, and anything i could find, and i pushed down all the edges and such.. i also cut it some so it would go into any non-flat surface..

ZeroAccess · Post by **ZeroAccess** » Sun Dec 17, 2006 5:32 pm

My job is a small small shop (4 mechanics working 24/7). Boss man is there but he's pointless. Anyways we use it technically to repair holes in trailers. Just get some brake cleaner and clean the area fairly well and then smack some of the tar tape down. It sticks pretty darn good. I think I'm still going to give it a shot and see how well it does. I mean heck I can get 100ft of it for like 7 dollars I think.

I'll probally do this tuesday and let ya'll know how it works. If I can get to feeling better I think I'm coming down with the flu.