Can Anyone Fix My Amp?

greataudioposcar · Post by **greataudioposcar** » Fri Dec 15, 2006 5:41 pm

I just installed a used JBL GTQ400 amp less than a week ago. Two nights ago, after just starting my truck, I heard snap-crackle-pop. I turned around to look under my back bench seat, where my amp was installed, and it looked like the power had grounded at the connections by the flash of light there. It only lasted a couple of seconds. I metered my power wires, and they still had power coming in. The power line has a fuse coming off of the battery, but the amp does not have a fuse. None of the connections were loose, nor did any of the wires touch each other. I took the amp out and did not see any burn marks, and the amp did not smell like burned electronics. I also took the cover off the amp and did not see anything on the board that was unusual. I did see a little surface rust where some of the soldering had been done. I really liked this amp. It seemed to push my 1 Kicker CVR-10 perfectly. I installed an Xtant 121m that I had laying around, but it does not sound near as good. I was told that this amp should pound my Kicker? Maybe I don't have the amp set up right, I don't know? I put the jumper in this amp on +20dB. I have a Clarion DXZ745MP Pro Audio deck, with 4 volt pre amp outputs, and the deck has sub volume and control, if that is significant at all? I would appreciate any help. Thank you.

brtnboarder3241 · Post by **brtnboarder3241** » Fri Dec 15, 2006 7:36 pm

your saying it doesnt have a single fuse at all on it?

ZeroAccess · Post by **ZeroAccess** » Fri Dec 15, 2006 8:10 pm

toomanyamps may be able to help you.
He is a member here on the board, give him a shout.

greataudioposcar · Post by **greataudioposcar** » Fri Dec 15, 2006 8:19 pm

It does not have any fuses onboard the actual amp. This is a bi-amp, so it has two 12 volt inputs. I have a inline fuse for each 12 volt supply wire, located about 12 inches from the battery. I did use Knuconceptz amp wiring kits as well, so it isn't cheap wiring and fuses.

Jszar · Post by **Jszar** » Fri Dec 15, 2006 8:48 pm

Does the amp turn on? Check the speaker with an ohm meter (multi meter will work), make sure it has the resistance specified by Kicker.

greataudioposcar · Post by **greataudioposcar** » Mon Dec 18, 2006 3:06 pm

The amp does not seem to turn. I metered the resistance on the Kicker, and I got a reading of 3.5 ohms on both of the coils. I rechecked all my wiring to make sure that there was no problems, and installed the Xtant 121m to make do for a while until I can get the JBL fixed, or buy a new amp. The Xtant is only putting out about 32 volts AC at the speaker connections. The JBL used to put out about 54 volts AC in bridged mode for each channel. If I have to buy a new amp, is it ok to buy one that is rated a little bit higher than the sub, but don't turn the gain up higher than it can handle? Also, is it better to wire my sub to take a single 2 ohm load, or 2 4 ohm loads? I have been trying to get a hold of toomanyamps, but I have been unsuccessful.

Bwcad1 · Post by **Bwcad1** » Mon Dec 18, 2006 3:14 pm

hes having some family issues email cia engineering they can fix it.

greataudioposcar · Post by **greataudioposcar** » Mon Dec 18, 2006 8:12 pm

Thank you!

smoker · Post by **smoker** » Tue Dec 19, 2006 6:50 am

and buy a d-block......if you put a d-block closest to the amp and feed each 12 volt supply off of it each individual fuse will only have to be about half of the rating as the one under the hood that supplies power to both 12v connections.....this may have prevented your amp from cooking......

greataudioposcar · Post by **greataudioposcar** » Tue Dec 19, 2006 1:31 pm

So should I run about a 4 gauge wire from the battery to the d-block, and the say about an 8 gauge to from the d-block?