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RE Audio SE sub owners only
* Bass Boost is used to compensate for roll-off in a sealed enclosure.
1) Bass Boost off,
2) Equalizer flat,
3) On the deck, SUB level 0%
4) On the deck, your Subwoofer LPF @~100Hz if available.
5) On the amp, your Subwoofer LPF @~100Hz.
6) On the deck, your Subwoofer SSF @~30 if available.
7) On the amp, your Subwoofer SSF @~30.
8) Turn the amp gain all the way down.
9) Increase the headunit volume, playing music until it's too loud but not distorted.
10) Insert test-tone CD, leave volume alone.
11) Increase SUB level to 90%
12) Play tone at same volume.
13) Reset your gains, gaining upward until you achieve your target voltage +~15%
14) Adjust filters until you achieve sonic happiness.
That should be a good place to start.
1) Bass Boost off,
2) Equalizer flat,
3) On the deck, SUB level 0%
4) On the deck, your Subwoofer LPF @~100Hz if available.
5) On the amp, your Subwoofer LPF @~100Hz.
6) On the deck, your Subwoofer SSF @~30 if available.
7) On the amp, your Subwoofer SSF @~30.
8) Turn the amp gain all the way down.
9) Increase the headunit volume, playing music until it's too loud but not distorted.
10) Insert test-tone CD, leave volume alone.
11) Increase SUB level to 90%
12) Play tone at same volume.
13) Reset your gains, gaining upward until you achieve your target voltage +~15%
14) Adjust filters until you achieve sonic happiness.
That should be a good place to start.
Why would he want both x overs on, and why 100 herts? IMO thats a little hight for a 12. I could see 80, or 60 if your talking about a XXX or W7.theCybe wrote:* Bass Boost is used to compensate for roll-off in a sealed enclosure.
1) Bass Boost off,
2) Equalizer flat,
3) On the deck, SUB level 0%
4) On the deck, your Subwoofer LPF @~100Hz if available.
5) On the amp, your Subwoofer LPF @~100Hz.
6) On the deck, your Subwoofer SSF @~30 if available.
7) On the amp, your Subwoofer SSF @~30.
8) Turn the amp gain all the way down.
9) Increase the headunit volume, playing music until it's too loud but not distorted.
10) Insert test-tone CD, leave volume alone.
11) Increase SUB level to 90%
12) Play tone at same volume.
13) Reset your gains, gaining upward until you achieve your target voltage +~15%
14) Adjust filters until you achieve sonic happiness.
That should be a good place to start.
Plus, the normal test tone used for subs is 50 herts, so the x over at 80 or 100 won't make a diffrence.
Oh yeah, nice deck. (on the other post) I played with one the other day and was pretty impressed.
I have an SE 12". I used it in my car in a 2.8 cu ft box tuned to 32hz. It was actually pretty loud. Not deafening loud but loud enough.
Right now it's in my house in a 2.4 cu ft box tuned to 27hz receiving 500 watts and it shakes my walls and my door in my room and it shakes the cabinets and everything else in my kitchen.
I will say that the upper end is kind of lacking on this sub but the low end is killer.
If you do not think it's loud enough then maybe some setting somewhere is off or on the wrong setting. Give everything a once over and make sure all is correct (including wiring of the sub). If everything is set right then maybe you have unrealistic expectations in terms of output.
Right now it's in my house in a 2.4 cu ft box tuned to 27hz receiving 500 watts and it shakes my walls and my door in my room and it shakes the cabinets and everything else in my kitchen.
I will say that the upper end is kind of lacking on this sub but the low end is killer.
If you do not think it's loud enough then maybe some setting somewhere is off or on the wrong setting. Give everything a once over and make sure all is correct (including wiring of the sub). If everything is set right then maybe you have unrealistic expectations in terms of output.
So the headunit's not sending a full range signal to the subwoofer amplifier.JeremyC wrote:Why would he want both x overs on,
Size has nothing to do with it. I chose a hundred as the -3db down point to open up his filters and make sure he isn't crossing anything that's affecting his output adversely.JC wrote:and why 100 herts?IMO thats a little hight for a 12.
I could also see 80, once the problems are worked out.JC wrote:I could see 80, or 60 if your talking about a XXX or W7.
XXX or W7? What? I can't even justify that.
We use 50Hz because it should be unaffected by the filters. The crossover point is the frequency at which the signal is attenuated by 3db. It's a slope, not a wall - the steepness [or lack thereof] of the slope may affect the input signal if it's too low - see question number two.JC wrote:Plus, the normal test tone used for subs is 50 herts, so the x over at 80 or 100 won't make a diffrence.
Thanks, it kicks all kinds of ass. :)JC wrote:Oh yeah, nice deck. (on the other post) I played with one the other day and was pretty impressed.
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solacedagony
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You only really need one or the other. If you put them both on, add both slopes together to get the final slope.theCybe wrote:So the headunit's not sending a full range signal to the subwoofer amplifier.
I've heard people talk about the XXX and W7s being muddy above 60. I have an XXX, but I'm still learning how to tune and hear things, so I can't comment.theCybe wrote:XXX or W7? What? I can't even justify that.
I understand that, but whats the point of having both on. One x-over sure, but two, and you can start some pretty weird x-over slopes if he isn't exactly on 100 on both x-overs.theCybe wrote:So the headunit's not sending a full range signal to the subwoofer amplifier.
Really. Most people cut them off lower since they tend to sound really muddy once they get above 60 or so hertz.theCybe wrote:XXX or W7? What? I can't even justify that..
I understand how a x-over works. If he is usning a 50 herts tone, it wouldn't matter what slope the x-over is set at, ot if its set at 80 or 2000 herts.theCybe wrote:We use 50Hz because it should be unaffected by the filters. The crossover point is the frequency at which the signal is attenuated by 3db. It's a slope, not a wall - the steepness [or lack thereof] of the slope may affect the input signal if it's too low
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