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WEIRD - Battery light on, but no problems....?
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Justin from Detroit1
- Junior Member
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- Location: Detroit
took it to Advanced. No codes were being put out. Check battery and alternator, everything was fine. Belts were all fine. He saidthe only thing he could think of would be a glitch with the attery light itself. I'm still taking it to the shop tomorrow.
Oh, and it hasn't stalled since earlier. Humidity has gone down, wonder if that is what caused it?
Oh, and it hasn't stalled since earlier. Humidity has gone down, wonder if that is what caused it?
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Robert Wollenberg
- Posts: 1386
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maybe you had moisture in your distributor or something? That is if your car has a distributor I guess. I know many cars come with individual coils or coil packs now a days.
Robert R. Wollenberg
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Audio Alchemy, Owner
Phone: (325) 480-2790
E-mail: [email protected]
Web: www.audiochemy.com
www.abilenecaraudio.com
www.abilenecaralarms.com
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- GlassWolf
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thread tl;dr
read first post,
could be a failing battery (read a lot of issues lately with optimas) or a bad or failing starter or bad wiring somewhere. Way to test this is under load.
take the car to a shop or store with an electrical system tester. It'll place a continuous load on the system and monitor both voltage and current delivery at the alternator and battery while doing so. This is really the only good way to test a battery, as just using a DMM won't place a high resistance load on the system to draw high current and see how the system responds.
The battery can show 12 volts when you start the car, and drop afterward or orly when trying to deliver high current.. cars can be troublesome like that.
Using a diagnostic computer to rad trouble codes is a good idea, too.
read first post,
could be a failing battery (read a lot of issues lately with optimas) or a bad or failing starter or bad wiring somewhere. Way to test this is under load.
take the car to a shop or store with an electrical system tester. It'll place a continuous load on the system and monitor both voltage and current delivery at the alternator and battery while doing so. This is really the only good way to test a battery, as just using a DMM won't place a high resistance load on the system to draw high current and see how the system responds.
The battery can show 12 volts when you start the car, and drop afterward or orly when trying to deliver high current.. cars can be troublesome like that.
Using a diagnostic computer to rad trouble codes is a good idea, too.

GlassWolf (aka KikiTheCat)
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- swimmerdude
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Justin from Detroit1
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- Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 6:00 pm
- Location: Detroit
- MobileAudio219
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Diagnostic computers and scanners arent the same thing... Diagnostics are way more advanced and will pick up more codes then scanners...
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- GlassWolf
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read a few more posts. if it's staling, the distributor suggestion is a good one. experienced that one first hand.
a bad seal or crack in the distributor cap or a bad plug cable could cause that to happen.
I also found for some reason that using some "dry gas" in with your fuel will make the stalling cease for a while as well.. but it's jus a temporary fix and will start again with he dry gas burns off.
a bad seal or crack in the distributor cap or a bad plug cable could cause that to happen.
I also found for some reason that using some "dry gas" in with your fuel will make the stalling cease for a while as well.. but it's jus a temporary fix and will start again with he dry gas burns off.

GlassWolf (aka KikiTheCat)
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Ryan from Ohio
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[quote="GlassWolf"]thread tl]
Ok thats two posts now with that tl;dr thing in it.
I gotta ask, WTF is that?
Ok thats two posts now with that tl;dr thing in it.
I gotta ask, WTF is that?
-Ryan
www.caraudiocentral.net - Your #1 Car Audio Resource on the Net!
www.caraudiocentral.net - Your #1 Car Audio Resource on the Net!

