It started when I tried to bridge my amp, supplying 100w x 2. After having the amp repeatedly cut off, I measured the ohms (through the speaker wire) and it was at 3.5 ohms. I had no idea why that was, but figured that was why the amp was shutting off.
I went back to a normal setup, 50w x 2 (left the other 2 channels off) and thought that would be the end of it until I got new speakers, but then something else started happening. The left speaker kept losing midbass. I thought something had some loose inside of the door, so I took it apart and checked everything, and found nothing wrong. I measured the ohms of each side (There are 2 sets of terminals on my Kappas, since it uses a crossover, I guess), and one side (the side with the midbass) wouldn't get a reading, while the other side read 5.0.
What happened here? Did I manage to blow one of my speakers?
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Damn, speaker problems.
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Ryan from Ohio
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- Joined: Fri Mar 17, 2000 12:00 pm
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Ohms can be a tricky thing to meausre. WHat your doing is measuring the DC resistance (Ohm) not the AC impedance (Ohm) which we go by.
A reading of zero indicates no resistance, or dead short (Blown Closed). A reading of infinite means there is absolutely no electrical contact (Blown open)
A reading of zero indicates no resistance, or dead short (Blown Closed). A reading of infinite means there is absolutely no electrical contact (Blown open)
-Ryan
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It reads OL, which is what it's at when its not in contact with anything. In any case, it doesn't matter now, I somehow managed to puncture the tweeter. Go me :| Time for components!
By the way, and idea why the amp wouldn't run in bridged mode? It would play, but once it hit a certain voltage, it would go into protect mode. I thought the 3.5ohms (at the wire that connects to the amp) was what was causing it.
By the way, and idea why the amp wouldn't run in bridged mode? It would play, but once it hit a certain voltage, it would go into protect mode. I thought the 3.5ohms (at the wire that connects to the amp) was what was causing it.