Check the wiring, make sure there aren't any loose or frayed wires as well as corrosion on anything. If that isn't the case, I'd still say it's the regulator. Usually when an alternator dies, it just dies, it usually won't be sporadic.
The most common things that happen to an alternator (no particular order):
1: Open field-To check that you would put an ohmmeter on the field terminal and the other probe on ground. Of course, for an open field you'd get infinite resistance.
2: Dead short in the field. Same procedure as above, except you'd get no resistance (0 ohm).
3: Stator windings/diodes gone. This results in reduced output, mainly a huge loss of output current (but usually only a slight loss of output voltage). You've got three phases, so you can lose one and get reduced output for a while. The added stress to the alternator will pretty much guarantee the eventual failure of the rest, though.
4: Mechanical failure-Pretty self explanatory. Bearing failures are the most common.
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Lights dim at idle
Thanks Jon, I'll look over those. I'll get out the Multimeter and check all the connections and everything. Again thanks for the help.Jonathan wrote:Check the wiring, make sure there aren't any loose or frayed wires as well as corrosion on anything. If that isn't the case, I'd still say it's the regulator. Usually when an alternator dies, it just dies, it usually won't be sporadic.
The most common things that happen to an alternator (no particular order):
1: Open field-To check that you would put an ohmmeter on the field terminal and the other probe on ground. Of course, for an open field you'd get infinite resistance.
2: Dead short in the field. Same procedure as above, except you'd get no resistance (0 ohm).
3: Stator windings/diodes gone. This results in reduced output, mainly a huge loss of output current (but usually only a slight loss of output voltage). You've got three phases, so you can lose one and get reduced output for a while. The added stress to the alternator will pretty much guarantee the eventual failure of the rest, though.
4: Mechanical failure-Pretty self explanatory. Bearing failures are the most common.
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Robert Wollenberg
- Posts: 1386
- Joined: Mon Sep 19, 2005 4:45 am
- Location: Abilene, Texas
He must have had a wire falling off or something and didn't want to tell us about it.
Robert R. Wollenberg
Audio Alchemy, Owner
Phone: (325) 480-2790
E-mail: [email protected]
Web: www.audiochemy.com
www.abilenecaraudio.com
www.abilenecaralarms.com
FB: www.facebook.com/audio.alchemy
Audio Alchemy, Owner
Phone: (325) 480-2790
E-mail: [email protected]
Web: www.audiochemy.com
www.abilenecaraudio.com
www.abilenecaralarms.com
FB: www.facebook.com/audio.alchemy
-
Robert Wollenberg
- Posts: 1386
- Joined: Mon Sep 19, 2005 4:45 am
- Location: Abilene, Texas
Has it been working now?
Robert R. Wollenberg
Audio Alchemy, Owner
Phone: (325) 480-2790
E-mail: [email protected]
Web: www.audiochemy.com
www.abilenecaraudio.com
www.abilenecaralarms.com
FB: www.facebook.com/audio.alchemy
Audio Alchemy, Owner
Phone: (325) 480-2790
E-mail: [email protected]
Web: www.audiochemy.com
www.abilenecaraudio.com
www.abilenecaralarms.com
FB: www.facebook.com/audio.alchemy
I think so. I took out all my switches including my voltmeter and such, but I could tell when it was running 11v because the insturment panels would just be terribly dim, it was blatantly obvious, and I haven't noticed that lately. Anyways I think this problem will be completely resolved when I drop the Kicker KX 1200.1 and just have the JL 300/4, as my alt will have a lot of headroom.Airforceyooper wrote:Has it been working now?

