Help choosing a tweets

High Society · Post by **High Society** » Sat Apr 29, 2006 11:55 pm

solacedagony,

I keep missing your postes, lol, I dunno how?? But what type of specs to you look at on a tweet to match with what ever you have?

solacedagony · Post by **solacedagony** » Sun Apr 30, 2006 12:04 am

High Society, double read Jonathan's choosing midbasses post. Also, check out http://www.passivecrossovers.com for some info on notch filters and Zobel networks.

Ryan from Ohio · Post by **Ryan from Ohio** » Sun Apr 30, 2006 7:41 am

Ok so Matt (High) bought a set of Rainbow comps minus the tweeter...

The comps and the crossovers are matched...

Now if you look in the instruction manual for the comps I think it has the properties of the tweeters listed...

Look for one that closely matches it, or close...

The crossover will tell you where it start seperating the freqs. Now lets say the tweeter kicks in @ 1500 Hz on the crossover...

Well then you dont want to buy a tweeter thats range is 2500-20K Hz...

(Numbers are used soley as an example).

If you dont have the above info I can check my manual for you. I will have to dig it out of my walk in closet though

Oh well, gettign about time to install int he Alero anyhow :)

Post by **GlassWolf** » Sun Apr 30, 2006 9:27 am

Bwcad1 wrote:ya thats like throwing two midgets into a ring and hoping they will fight! sometimes they just want to hug.

As a little person, I take offense to this!

HS, if you don't know what you're doing, I'd really suggest you just go ahead and buy Justin's component set and be done with this. Don't mess with separate component speakers and custom crossovers unless you have some background in doing this, or some sort of experience/education. Doing it blindly will almost always come out a disaster in the end.

Just trying to save you a lot of wasted effort.

High Society · Post by **High Society** » Sun Apr 30, 2006 10:10 am

If you dont have the above info I can check my manual for you. I will have to dig it out of my walk in closet though

Can you do that Ryan, I don't have it yet. Oh and the tweet is an CAL 25 G I believe.

And Kiki, going this way, I can learn more, by finding out feq crosses,ect. Inside of just droping it and going with something else. And learing nothing.

High Society · Post by **High Society** » Sun Apr 30, 2006 10:47 am

http://car.rainbow-audio.de/files/dynam ... ers_en.pdf

PDF of all the tweet they have made. (its only 16kb so don't worry)

I looked for the CS line, and the tweeters a fabric. But William's review had silks. And what does VOF, and WOB stand for?

Post by **GlassWolf** » Sun Apr 30, 2006 2:29 pm

The problem is you're not really learning anything though. You're just asking us to do all of the work for you and pick the right tweeters, and the crossovers, etc. :)

What is that teaching you, yourself?

High Society · Post by **High Society** » Sun Apr 30, 2006 5:23 pm

The problem is you're not really learning anything though. You're just asking us to do all of the work for you and pick the right tweeters, and the crossovers, etc.
What is that teaching you, yourself?

asshole

I picked the tweets then you guys tell me why they do or don't work. I learn why :)

Jonathan · Post by **Jonathan** » Sun Apr 30, 2006 6:00 pm

I REALLY recommend you pick up a book on this if you really want to delve into crossover design. Something like "Introduction to Loudspeaker Design", written by John L. Murphy. Perhaps some of Vance Dickasons works as well, though they are geared to the advanced enthusiast and I'd recommend a simpler book first to get your fundamentals down.

Second: You're not going to get enough information from most car audio manufacturers. Most don't give you even half decent measurements, mainly because 99% of car audio equipment performs so poorly that the manufacturer would embarrass themselves by posting a true plot of their performance capabilities. Rainbow is an exception to the rule, but the info still isn't there.

High Society · Post by **High Society** » Sun Apr 30, 2006 6:59 pm

Thanks John. I guess I'll just go active. Oh, and is it okay to hook up the x-over to the mids only, w/o the tweets? I thought I read somewere it puts a strain on the resistor's inside the xover, or will be be okay?