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bravox carbon fiber's
bravox carbon fiber's
well the bravox carbon fiber 2-ways should be here tomorrow. i was going to do the new 3-ways, but they are not yet available(june?). so anyway, my question is for all of the electronic nerds, you know who you are. i wonder if it would be possible to modify the bravox x-over to incorporate a mid and use the 6" in the 2-way setup as a midbass? just a thought, i know i probably shouldn't screw with them, just wondering. As a second question, in response to the answer i am probably going to get, where do i go for parts for building my own x-overs?
Morel Elate 3-ways ran by a Genesis Series III Dual-mono, Morel Ultimo ran by an Autotek mm3000.1, Alpine DVA-9861
JC's Customs
For all your stereo wants.......
JC's Customs
For all your stereo wants.......
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sinister audio
- Master of My Domain
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i guess none of the other electronics nerds want to reply and have to claim the title! lol i'll probably do that jeremy. is there any good x-over design programs/faqs to check out?
Morel Elate 3-ways ran by a Genesis Series III Dual-mono, Morel Ultimo ran by an Autotek mm3000.1, Alpine DVA-9861
JC's Customs
For all your stereo wants.......
JC's Customs
For all your stereo wants.......
found some, which do you guys recommend I try? 2nd order link(not going to type that out everytime) 4th order link 6th order link, butterworth the list goes on and on. which would be sufficient for a 125 x 2 3 way component setup.
Morel Elate 3-ways ran by a Genesis Series III Dual-mono, Morel Ultimo ran by an Autotek mm3000.1, Alpine DVA-9861
JC's Customs
For all your stereo wants.......
JC's Customs
For all your stereo wants.......
Second order is good for mids and highs cause they tend to roll off at about 12 db anyways. Thats what I have the focals set at, except for the HPF on the mid. Its set at 24db so it will blend with the sub better.
Then I do a pink noise sweep and set the x over points so I get a close to flat responce.
As for X over types, I perfer Linkwitz-Riley, and its probably the most common, but any can work if designed properly.
http://www.rane.com/note160.html (if your in a hurry look at figures 3, 4, 5, and the summery under 5. That will give you a basic idea of the advantages of a LR x over)
What will work the best with the Bravox? That depends on the drivers, what speaker you add in, and how you want them all to match up. There isn't really a one size fits all answer here. But here is an idea. Lets break down the speakers you have, or any set of speakers for the purpose, and look at their specs, where you would want to install them, and any flaws they might have.
For example the focal Utopia mid, and TN52 tweet. Lets say the mid has a peak in it at 5000 herts that you want to get around, and the tweeter being in inverted dome requires a high x over point.
So your factory x over would look like this.
Mid HPF 24 db at 80 herts
Mid LPF 12 db at 2500 herts
Tweeter HPF 12 db at 3000 herts.
Now lets add in a mid range driver, and use the utopia mid as a mid bass. Lets even say the mid bass is in the door, and the tweeter and the mid are in kick panels.
Mid Bass HPF 24 db at 80 herts
Mid Bass LPF 12 db at 400 herts
Mid HPF 12 db at 500 herts
Mid LPF 12 db at 2500 hrts
Tweeter HPF 12 db at 3000 herts
Now if I decided to move the tweeter to the dash, or A-piller I would might change my mid range and tweeter to look like this.
Mid HPF 12 db at 500 herts
Mid LPF 12 db at 4500 hrts
Tweeter HPF 12 db at 5000 herts
Again this is all numbers I just made up, but its a basic idea.
Hay sinister care to bootleg a few copies of your x over designing program?
Then I do a pink noise sweep and set the x over points so I get a close to flat responce.
As for X over types, I perfer Linkwitz-Riley, and its probably the most common, but any can work if designed properly.
http://www.rane.com/note160.html (if your in a hurry look at figures 3, 4, 5, and the summery under 5. That will give you a basic idea of the advantages of a LR x over)
What will work the best with the Bravox? That depends on the drivers, what speaker you add in, and how you want them all to match up. There isn't really a one size fits all answer here. But here is an idea. Lets break down the speakers you have, or any set of speakers for the purpose, and look at their specs, where you would want to install them, and any flaws they might have.
For example the focal Utopia mid, and TN52 tweet. Lets say the mid has a peak in it at 5000 herts that you want to get around, and the tweeter being in inverted dome requires a high x over point.
So your factory x over would look like this.
Mid HPF 24 db at 80 herts
Mid LPF 12 db at 2500 herts
Tweeter HPF 12 db at 3000 herts.
Now lets add in a mid range driver, and use the utopia mid as a mid bass. Lets even say the mid bass is in the door, and the tweeter and the mid are in kick panels.
Mid Bass HPF 24 db at 80 herts
Mid Bass LPF 12 db at 400 herts
Mid HPF 12 db at 500 herts
Mid LPF 12 db at 2500 hrts
Tweeter HPF 12 db at 3000 herts
Now if I decided to move the tweeter to the dash, or A-piller I would might change my mid range and tweeter to look like this.
Mid HPF 12 db at 500 herts
Mid LPF 12 db at 4500 hrts
Tweeter HPF 12 db at 5000 herts
Again this is all numbers I just made up, but its a basic idea.
Hay sinister care to bootleg a few copies of your x over designing program?
-
sinister audio
- Master of My Domain
- Posts: 2562
- Joined: Sat Mar 19, 2005 9:00 am
- Location: Watertown, South Dakota
- Contact:
