Weapon R intake and (insert brand here) exhaust

JASON96R · Post by **JASON96R** » Mon Mar 13, 2006 9:27 pm

My engine revs to 6800 making power to 6500 also. That is basically where the similarities end. I have a 367, and I am in the 400+ range, no dyno yet. Yeah, I figured you kept the rpm low in the sound clip. I personally like the way mine sounds in the 4-5000 range, sounds like it is ready to eat a couple rice rockets.

Are you going to be at the Mopar Nats in Norwalk this year?

Jonathan · Post by **Jonathan** » Mon Mar 13, 2006 9:28 pm

I was about to ask how high that thing could go. I got mine a tad over 7k, but the motor was smaller. Wish I would've run it on a dyno. Maybe I'll build another one of these days.

Let me know what it runs when you take it out :)

Post by **GlassWolf** » Mon Mar 13, 2006 9:35 pm

not sure yet. hoping to have the car back on the road this summer.. mostly depends on money and getting everything sync'ed up for what I'm doing. it all takes time and getting everything lined up right helps reduce that.

cam I'm using is custom ground for me by Scott Brown at Straightline in Okemus, MI.
496cid Wedge - pump gas street engine (10.7 to 1 CR)
Straightline rotating assembly
Ported Indy 440EZ heads
Ported Victor Single Plane intake manifold
Straightline hydraulic cam, 263/273 @ .050
4150 Carb ( Quick Fuel 1050-AN)
Indy Roller rockers
1" tapered spacer
supercomp ceramic headers
MSD 6AL ignition and billet distributor
NGK plugs
4.150" crank, cyl bored .030" over

JASON96R · Post by **JASON96R** » Mon Mar 13, 2006 9:54 pm

Yeah, I definitely understand the money thing. I might take my car to Norwalk, just for fun though. I can actually drive their with it since I live like 15 miles away. I'm pretty happy with my engine for costing only $1800 to build. Of course there is always money going into it. Oh yeah KIKI very impressive engine.

Mine is:

367 9.8:1 Comp
MP 292/508 cam
M1 Single Plane
Iron heads with a ton of work done, engine builders speciality
910 CFM, custom ThermoQuad
Comp rollers
Still messing with spacers
1 5/8 headers(plan to get custon HeadersByED)
FBO Ignition with custon curved dist.
Turned crank bored .60
In a 69 Barracuda with 4 speed, and 4.10 outback.

I believe the thread is officially hijacked.

Jonathan · Post by **Jonathan** » Mon Mar 13, 2006 9:56 pm

In dedication to the above comments, I have created a new thread:
http://www.caraudiocentral.net/forums/s ... #post39962

Mithrandir · Post by **Mithrandir** » Tue Mar 14, 2006 5:09 am

GlassWolf wrote:not worth it. no noticeable performance gain.
the sunfire isn't a sportscar. don't treat it like one.
all you'll end up with is a riced out wannabe, in all honesty.
for what it's worth, this is what performance really sounds like:
http://www.glasswolf.net/misc/440.mp3
now, if you were to add hoodpins.. that'd be like 20HP right there.

hoodpins?

i think you were joking kiki, thats not very nice :-P Thats fine, im lookin at gettin a trans am formula in 2 years or so

Post by **GlassWolf** » Tue Mar 14, 2006 6:32 am

yeah the hoodpins thing was a running joke on another board... everything there is "zomg! hoodpinz!" so it got to be a joke. but that board lives in memes like that heh
anyway here's the real core of the problem:
intake and exhaust should help an engine breathe better, and increase performance.
that's the idea.
here's the hold up:
you have a computer controlled EFI car, and the air/fuel mix is all preset by the computer, so more air in isn't going to improve anything. the throttlebody, MAF sensor, and so forth will all still limit the F/A mixture and the results won't change in output unless you can actually remap the ECM to account for the changes. Now if you really want the best bang for the buck improvement to performance for any modern car, get a reprogrammer for it and reset the computer in the car for better performance.
That's my best suggestion.

Mithrandir · Post by **Mithrandir** » Tue Mar 14, 2006 2:43 pm

GlassWolf wrote:yeah the hoodpins thing was a running joke on another board... everything there is "zomg! hoodpinz!" so it got to be a joke. but that board lives in memes like that heh
anyway here's the real core of the problem:
intake and exhaust should help an engine breathe better, and increase performance.
that's the idea.
here's the hold up:
you have a computer controlled EFI car, and the air/fuel mix is all preset by the computer, so more air in isn't going to improve anything. the throttlebody, MAF sensor, and so forth will all still limit the F/A mixture and the results won't change in output unless you can actually remap the ECM to account for the changes. Now if you really want the best bang for the buck improvement to performance for any modern car, get a reprogrammer for it and reset the computer in the car for better performance.
That's my best suggestion.

cool cool, i may do that if i come into spare money, btw can you replace the part of a sunroof that opens and closes it? the latch or crank or whatever it may be. (mine is a crank open and the crank is busted, everything else is ok) Id rather not replace the whole deal if i dont have to

William from NOLA · Post by **William from NOLA** » Tue Mar 14, 2006 3:01 pm

I've never seen a crank sunroof before.

If you want to be more unique, put a Type-R badge on it. lol sorry, couldn't resist

lotas · Post by **lotas** » Tue Mar 14, 2006 3:07 pm

Just curious you engine fanatics-

What about gas mileage, how is that affected by intake/exhaust? I was reading reviews about AEM Cold Air or V2 I don't remember which but it was on Honda's and everyone kept mentioning a jump in gas mileage. Is this true? Significant amount? Worth it?