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Have a cool ride? Then show it off on our website! All vehicles welcome!
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JL AUDIO! Need some Help!
Been considering it. I've got no prob with a sub behind the seat, and I really shouldn't have any trouble fitting an 8W3v2 and keeping most of my legroom. If it interferes too much, then I'll go get the buckets. Main reason I want the bench is because if my wife gets stuck on the side of the road or in a fender bender, I can still get her and my daughter in the truck if I have to (be it an uncomfortable trip, but hey). It's happened before.
- MobileAudio219
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The turbo coupes have news seats... While you're at it pull the motor and trans and swap them in the ranger... :happy055:Jonathan wrote:Been considering it. I'd like to keep cash output to a minimum, but if I can't get the sub behind the seat comfortably then I'm going to go looking for seats from a Mustang GT, Turbo Coupe, something of that nature.
1995 Ford Explorer Sport, 4.0, Auto, 2dr, 2wd!
JVC KD-S100, PPI 356c's ,Hifonics ZXI 6410, 10" AB DX
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JVC KD-S100, PPI 356c's ,Hifonics ZXI 6410, 10" AB DX
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I've learned a couple of things today:
1: 38 year old men aren't meant to swing sledgehammers for the majority of a workday. They shouldn't try to convince themselves that they can still do it, either.
2: After swinging such sledgehammer all day, don't decide to go shopping and/or extensive speaker auditioning 40 miles away from home. If you get new cologne that you know your wife will jump your bones over, don't wear it until healing occurs.
3: I still don't like Focal.
4: JL ZRs are off the list.
5: Polk SRs are off the list.
6: Boston Acoustics Z6 components kick ass.
7: SEAS Lotus References and Boston Z6 components are now my final 2 contenders.
8: It looks like I'll be able to fit the sub in a console without bucket seats, though it will require some very clever fiberglassing.
9: If you get your wife to rub your back and sides with Icy-Hot, don't let her go too far and get it on your nipples. Ouch.
1: 38 year old men aren't meant to swing sledgehammers for the majority of a workday. They shouldn't try to convince themselves that they can still do it, either.
2: After swinging such sledgehammer all day, don't decide to go shopping and/or extensive speaker auditioning 40 miles away from home. If you get new cologne that you know your wife will jump your bones over, don't wear it until healing occurs.
3: I still don't like Focal.
4: JL ZRs are off the list.
5: Polk SRs are off the list.
6: Boston Acoustics Z6 components kick ass.
7: SEAS Lotus References and Boston Z6 components are now my final 2 contenders.
8: It looks like I'll be able to fit the sub in a console without bucket seats, though it will require some very clever fiberglassing.
9: If you get your wife to rub your back and sides with Icy-Hot, don't let her go too far and get it on your nipples. Ouch.
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High Society
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You got it easy, my gf forgot she had it on her hands after she rubbed me down, and well, you get the picture.9: If you get your wife to rub your back and sides with Icy-Hot, don't let her go too far and get it on your nipples. Ouch.
♠ Mateo ♠
80 pounds of Titanium
Proud Member of Team Wolfpack Audio
80 pounds of Titanium
Proud Member of Team Wolfpack Audio
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High Society
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audiobass10
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High Society
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It's not the sub that'll be loud, it's the box. 
I can take any "loud" sub in the world, and make it quieter than any "SQ" sub in the world, by manipulating the enclosure I'm putting it in.
What you really need to do is match the sub you buy with the enclosure design that suits your goals.
Ask yourself (in this order):
1) what am I looking to get out of my system? What do I expect from it? What do I want it to do for me?
2) how much space am I willing to sacrifice to reach these goals?
3) how much power can I / will I be feeding the sub to reach these goals?
Once those questions are answered, we can suggest a sealed enclosure, vented enclosure... tuning parameters... enclosure size, etc.
Only when you know those things can you really make an appropriate choice for a sub.
The correct answer is:
Because the W7 has more excursion than the W6, it has the ability to play lower (lower frequencies require greater excursion to make the same dB level).
That also means that at any given frequency, it has the ability to play louder as well - if your enclosure design will let you, given the power you have.
It's all a matrix.
So it has the potential - that doesn't mean it just "automatically will" - you could end up wasting a lot of money...
I can take any "loud" sub in the world, and make it quieter than any "SQ" sub in the world, by manipulating the enclosure I'm putting it in.
What you really need to do is match the sub you buy with the enclosure design that suits your goals.
Ask yourself (in this order):
1) what am I looking to get out of my system? What do I expect from it? What do I want it to do for me?
2) how much space am I willing to sacrifice to reach these goals?
3) how much power can I / will I be feeding the sub to reach these goals?
Once those questions are answered, we can suggest a sealed enclosure, vented enclosure... tuning parameters... enclosure size, etc.
Only when you know those things can you really make an appropriate choice for a sub.
Keeping the above in mind...P_JizzlE1024 wrote:Does the W7 Hit low more then w6?
The correct answer is:
Because the W7 has more excursion than the W6, it has the ability to play lower (lower frequencies require greater excursion to make the same dB level).
That also means that at any given frequency, it has the ability to play louder as well - if your enclosure design will let you, given the power you have.
It's all a matrix.
So it has the potential - that doesn't mean it just "automatically will" - you could end up wasting a lot of money...