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any of you guys ever use the dei 555f?

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smoker
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any of you guys ever use the dei 555f?

Post by smoker »

geez what a pain in the neck....seems simple, 2 wires, power and ground when remote starting...then you have the program mode which apparantely is some form of voodoo magic that i dont have, i actually had to keep a car overnight because of the programming for this thing, the guy just left it so i could work late and get it programmed....thing im gonna have to put in a 555u or just gut a key for him and make my own bypass.....
sinister audio
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Post by sinister audio »

never done a remote start but i guess im gonna do a viper something next week and some bulldog one. it should be pretty interesting.
Bwcad1
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Post by Bwcad1 »

good luck guys lol im scared of remote starts
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sinister audio
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Post by sinister audio »

i think i can wing it hopefully atleast
smoker
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Post by smoker »

ive done 9 in the last two weeks.....get hooked up with directwire its a huge help narrowing down install time....
smoker
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Post by smoker »

btw dont purchase a 555f module....they are complete crap and even the technical assistance guy told me to use the (i cant think of the number) one that places the key inside it.........we arent direct for dei due to local dealers but we can get stuff through wholesalers....anyway when i called tech. assistance....i was told they are not selling that module anymore because of the high failure rate.....
smoker
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Post by smoker »

Bwcad1 wrote:good luck guys lol im scared of remote starts


no reason to be scared bill......most of it wires up like an alarm, the only difference is 3 wires...starter, true ignition and true accessory....
Ranger SVO
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Post by Ranger SVO »

We use Autopage remote starts in my shop. But we always wire to all the ignition and accessory wires. There is also a brake wire that must be hooked up on every remote start that I've seen.

On other thing, on most cars, ignition 2 and ignition 3 (if equipped), drop out during engine cranking. The remote start module MUST duplicate this. I just corrected a problem this morning on a Chev Tahoe. The security light stayed on after remote starting because ignition 2 remained power during cranking. (my mistake). Test each ignition line, note what it does and make connections accordingly.

As far as security bypass what kind of car is it?
smoker
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Post by smoker »

it was a 02 ford explorer...you know how ford has those transponder keys? well dei offers a 555f bypass module for this thing that is supposed to be able to learn and transmit an acceptable frequency to bypass the PATS in fords and a few others, anyway it is junk.....i have yet to talk to anyone who has either been able to program it or have any luck over the long haul with reliability...there are some pretty ghetto ways to get around this that involves gutting the key and gluing the transponder to the key cylinder but i dont trust that, it works as long as the glue holds out but they make another module i believe is a 556u that holds a spare key inside and for my customers piece of mind i always offer to cut the teeth off the key before inserting it into the module and return the teeth to them if they seem to not like the idea of having an extra key under their dash......
On other thing, on most cars, ignition 2 and ignition 3 (if equipped), drop out during engine cranking. The remote start module MUST duplicate this
.

absolutely right....if you dont snatch the right wire you are gonna have issues with it doing anything more than cranking and then shutting off.....


and just to dispel a popular belief........you CAN put remote start on a standard and if done properly it is idiot proof......
smoker
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Post by smoker »

one other thing....with 98-99 up fords you have to have the 2 original keys to program a third key.......so if you guys touch a ford with the PATS on it make sure they bring you all the keys for programming and prepare them to spend 35 bucks on a new one at the dealer to guarantee a good key....
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