Orion 2150GX Old School Need Major Help!

smoker · Post by **smoker** » Sat Jul 30, 2005 5:06 pm

ok some people will disagree with this so let me start by saying it is not an ideal situation but, back in the day this was done on occasion. if you are not going to upgrade your hu, then get the loc and when you connect your rca cords use two pair of y-cords (splitters) to combine left and right together and then split them out into two cords again..you lose left and right bias this way but now you have common information to both channels, now what you can do is hook the left channel up to one voice coil and the right channel up to the other.. you will need a low pass signal regardless of how you do this and honestly you can buy something like the coustic piece for about what it would cost you to put together a 12 or 18 db sloped cap and coil setup......now that being said........let the naysayers have their say..........heeheee

sidewayzgt23 · Post by **sidewayzgt23** » Sat Jul 30, 2005 7:45 pm

I have been reading a lot of articles about old school Orions that have mods.. I took a chance and hooked the orange to positive and yellow to negative and it works like a charm.. I am running a single low pass coil crossover to the positive. I ran it for at least 20 minutes and the amp did not overheat.. I have heard that if this method was incorrect, there would be no sound at all.. I am running the speaker at 8 ohms for it is a dual 4 ohm configuration.. Did I do this correctly? Am I getting the full 600 watts bridged? The bass sure hits harder than before and I am using my stock headunit and a line out converter. There is an extra black negative wire coming out of the main negative ground slot. Any ideas of what this is? How can I tell if this is really modded.. Thanks

JeremyC · Post by **JeremyC** » Sun Jul 31, 2005 9:46 am

sidewayzgt23 wrote:I am running the speaker at 8 ohms for it is a dual 4 ohm configuration.. Did I do this correctly? Am I getting the full 600 watts bridged?

If your running it at 8 ohm your getting about 150 watts rms. You will not get 600 watts without the bridiging mod you and kiki were talking about.

You said the amp was rated at 150 by 2 at 4 ohm / 300 rms at 4 ohm bridged mono. So if you bridge it at 8 ohm you would devide the rms by 2 since you doubled the impediance. 300 / 2 = 150 watts rms at 8 ohm bridged mono.

sidewayzgt23 · Post by **sidewayzgt23** » Sun Jul 31, 2005 9:49 am

I am running the sub now at 2ohm.. I went to the Alpine website and the 1241D Type R can be run at 8ohm or 2ohm.. We will see how it sounds when I finallty get this thing hooked up.

sidewayzgt23 · Post by **sidewayzgt23** » Sun Jul 31, 2005 10:13 am

The amp is stable at 4ohms which will be 150 per channel x2.. I am guessing that the amp is modded because the bridging configuration works great which means that now that I am running it at 2ohm, I should be able to achieve the full 600 watts at 300 per channel x2.. I set the sub to the 2 ohm configuration.. I do not need the bridging module because of this.. I hooked the orange wire to positive and the yellow wire to negative and the amp worked great with lots of power and bass with the low pass coil crossover that I am using..

sinister audio · Post by **sinister audio** » Sun Jul 31, 2005 10:25 am

your still trying to dice the sh"t. and if you run the sub with only 150 watts youll probaly over gain it and clip the amp especially with a poor signal (loc) youll probaly toast your sub in no time and then have nothing.

JeremyC · Post by **JeremyC** » Sun Jul 31, 2005 12:10 pm

So what is your box tuned to. I noticed you have a ported box, and I would hate for you to run your sub without a subsonic filter, and mess it up that way.

sidewayzgt23 · Post by **sidewayzgt23** » Sun Jul 31, 2005 1:49 pm

sidewayzgt23 wrote:The amp is stable at 4ohms which will be 150 per channel x2.. I am guessing that the amp is modded because the bridging configuration works great which means that now that I am running it at 2ohm, I should be able to achieve the full 600 watts at 300 per channel x2.. I set the sub to the 2 ohm configuration.. I do not need the bridging module because of this.. I hooked the orange wire to positive and the yellow wire to negative and the amp worked great with lots of power and bass with the low pass coil crossover that I am using..

I am running 600 watts at 2 ohm

smoker · Post by **smoker** » Sun Jul 31, 2005 3:08 pm

what will you take for that amp when you let the smoke out of it?

sidewayzgt23 · Post by **sidewayzgt23** » Sun Jul 31, 2005 3:17 pm

I am going back to my old US Acoustics USA2100 amp with the built in crossover.. I am switching my sub back to the 8ohm configuration (4ohm per voice coil).. This whole thing is a nightmare and I should of never messed with it in the first place.. What happened is, with the 2 ohm configuration of my speaker, my sub shut off and that is because I was running 1ohm per channel which was to much.. I did not fry either one and they both still work.. we will see what happens in the future..

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Orion 2150GX Old School Need Major Help!

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