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Question on Wiring/compatibility

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Alert69
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Post by Alert69 »

How can I tell if that amp or any other amp would work with the current HU though? (regardless of what I decide)
Darthness
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Post by Darthness »

this is off topic but...

this is one of the reviews on ths amp:

"This product is a great buy. I have it hooked up through 2 audiobahn 15's, which are also great. I originally bought this because it was cheap, but i found out that it is also very functional."

oh yeah, if you click on speaker level inputs at the website it gives you a explanation.. so as longas you don't have a factory stereo or have used all the pre-outs on your deck.
Alert69
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Post by Alert69 »

I read that explanation.. do all aftermarket HU's have preouts? When I took it apart there were 4 channels but I dont know what a preout would have looked like.
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GlassWolf
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Post by GlassWolf »

don't trust review sites like epinions or audio review. they are owner reviews usually posted within a week of product purchase and usually jsut reflect that new-toy glow people get when everything is cool because they just spent money on it and it beats their last factory system. very unreliable.

no not all head units will have pre-outs, but most do these days.. it's easy enough to see by looking up a spec sheet on the net for any product.

any factory head unit can use a line out converter to get RCAs.
most head units you buy have pre-outs already.
any amplifier will work as long as you have an RCA level signal.
speaker level inputs generally suck
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GlassWolf (aka KikiTheCat)
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Post by Audiophile »

Heh, I love Kiki. He can be really technical, or he can be totally blunt--yet he knows when to do each :)

Volfenhag really does suck though, he's right. I got a friend who bought some just cuz he wanted some "Thump" in his system. My mom's Dodge Neon's stock stereo (6.25's all the wayaround) has more thump than his 2 12" volf's. That should say something.

Buy an Alpine amp. Relatively cheap on E-Bay, and the power ratings are CEA Certified, which means they're garunteed to put out AT LEAST the RMS rating they are rated at, most of them put out above what they're rated for. Some of the 250w RMS amps came in at 280 all the way up to I've seen one guy's rating card at 308...
Alert69
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Post by Alert69 »

Alright, ill check it out Audio and thanks for the pre out info Kiki :)
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Post by Audiophile »

:D Happy to help. If you're just going for a single amp I'd say look into an MRP-M350
Alert69
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Post by Alert69 »

"any factory head unit can use a line out converter to get RCAs.
most head units you buy have pre-outs already.
any amplifier will work as long as you have an RCA level signal.
speaker level inputs generally suck"

Alright, I don't have any preamp outputs so that means I need a "line out converter", right? Will that give me an RCA level signal to plug directly into the amp? What channel should I run the converter off or is it any available one?


Sorry for the questions but thanks for the help :)
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GlassWolf
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Post by GlassWolf »

if you insist on keeping that radio then yes you need an LOC.
it tapes into the rear speaker leads usually.

If this is a factory radio, look at a PAC OEM-1 as an option.
this has a T-harness that taps into your factory wiring without cutting any wires, and gives you up to 4 channels of RCA outputs.
a litle more money than a cheap circuit city LOC but far cleaner for install and SQ.
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GlassWolf (aka KikiTheCat)
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Alert69
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Post by Alert69 »

I will get a PAC OEM-1 assuming I keep my current headunit but given the money I'd like to replace it and I would get one with a preamp output :)

Another question comes to mind though. ***This is theoretical, not a real problem***
I was reading @ BasicCarAudioCentral and got the impression that if you had a 500 watt 1 ohm stable amplifier you could play any of the following on it:
One 500 watt 1 ohm sub
Two 500 watt 2 ohm subs
One 250 watt 1/2 ohm sub

Is that correct? Thnx!
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