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Can someone help out a car stereo illiterate person
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Ryan from Ohio
- Posts: 13308
- Joined: Fri Mar 17, 2000 12:00 pm
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What size fuse is in/on the amp?
Should be an ATC style fuse on it...
Should be an ATC style fuse on it...
-Ryan
www.caraudiocentral.net - Your #1 Car Audio Resource on the Net!
www.caraudiocentral.net - Your #1 Car Audio Resource on the Net!
- GlassWolf
- Master of My Domain
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- Joined: Thu Oct 07, 2004 4:00 am
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Darthness, I like memphis. nice stuff.
the 'big three' thing doesn't make much difference for a stock alternator and battery system in a car since the stock alternator can't put out more current than the stock wiring can handle anyway, but upon upgrading the alternator, you want to replace the following three wires with larger gauge power cable:
engine to ground/chassis
alternator to battery pos
battery neg to chassis
remember it's all one electrical circuit so every part of it has to have sufficient wiring to handle the current draw. not just battery pos to amplifiers and amps to chassis.
the 'big three' thing doesn't make much difference for a stock alternator and battery system in a car since the stock alternator can't put out more current than the stock wiring can handle anyway, but upon upgrading the alternator, you want to replace the following three wires with larger gauge power cable:
engine to ground/chassis
alternator to battery pos
battery neg to chassis
remember it's all one electrical circuit so every part of it has to have sufficient wiring to handle the current draw. not just battery pos to amplifiers and amps to chassis.

GlassWolf (aka KikiTheCat)
moderator-administrator
- William from NOLA
- Posts: 5172
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- Location: Metairie, LA
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At the most, it could draw 30 amps which it most likely won't. This equates to roughly 430 watts rms total at the maximum. If that amp is the only one you have, you really won't need to upgrade your electrical system. A new, good battery would be helpful, but you most likely won't need one.
It would be best to try it without any upgrades and see how your electrical system reacts.
It would be best to try it without any upgrades and see how your electrical system reacts.
A.K.A. megahurts4 :: Member since: July 19, 2002 
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Ryan from Ohio
- Posts: 13308
- Joined: Fri Mar 17, 2000 12:00 pm
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Agrees with WIlliam... 30 amps you should be fine unless you got a tiny alt...
-Ryan
www.caraudiocentral.net - Your #1 Car Audio Resource on the Net!
www.caraudiocentral.net - Your #1 Car Audio Resource on the Net!
cool. Do you think i shouild go with Memphis for subs? I'm thinking the mclass 12" DVC's, 2 of em in a good box. main reason is because i can get them locally. Its either these, alpine type-r, kicker, or RE. (tough really.. i want 2 SE 12"s from RE but they're too expensive for my budget!) maybe PM me with yoru suggestions if you're up for it instead of continuing to derail this thread :PKikiTheCat wrote:Darthness, I like memphis. nice stuff.
So I got the amp hooked up and working, and it sounded good and all. I shut my car off to put the CD player back in place (in the dash)...then when I went to turn it on again, the CD player wouldnt come on. I checked the back to make sure all the wires were still connected, which they were. Did the deck just overheat, or did I blow the deck, or a fuse or what's goin on there??