RE Audio SXX12D2 ported.

[callandor2k]

Ok been doing some more research and came up with this....

Single RE Audio SXX. Will be about same price if I went with 2 speakers in a sealed box. So I figured I would give this box a try to see if you all think it will work. Give me your opinions.




There will be 3 supports.

1. Splitting the vent in half to give support to rear wall, port walls and a little bit (but not much) on far wall.

2 & 3. Both of these will be in the sub chamber to give support to front wall and additional support to top and bottom along with the port along the back. They will have circle cutouts at same size as sub cutout for air flow.

Tell me what you think. I know it's small compared to what most people would use. But it is as big as I can physically make it and still be able to get it in and out of my trunk. RE suggests 2.0ft³, and this is on par with what they suggest. Sub will be facing the rear of car.

[Bwcad1]

To much bracing disturbs the air flow in the enclosure. In a box that small add a double baffle and use some 1-2 inch wooden dowel rods from front to back and side to side id say 2 left to right and 2 front to back right next to the sub.

Move the sub all the way to the left as close as you can to the port. This elongates the wave and helps build better pressure in the box. This was typically good for 1 db in our boxes. Add corner rounds ( i prefer concrete tubes cut in quarters or sch 40 pvc cut in quarters) in all inside corners and sand all outside corners to radius. Typically added 1-3 db for us.

Make front baffle and rear baffle full size as in 15.5 x 34 sides should be 14.5 x 14 and top should be 34 x 14.5. this keeps the baffle from being inside the top and bottom panels and provides more support than just glue and nails holding the baffle to the top and bottom.

[Bwcad1]

To much bracing disturbs the air flow in the enclosure. In a box that small add a double baffle and use some 1-2 inch wooden dowel rods from front to back and side to side id say 2 left to right and 2 front to back right next to the sub.

Move the sub all the way to the left as close as you can to the port. This elongates the wave and helps build better pressure in the box. This was typically good for 1 db in our boxes. Add corner rounds ( i prefer concrete cardboard tubes cut in quarters or 2-3" sch 40 PVC cut in quarters) in all inside corners and sand all outside corners to radius. Typically added 1-3 db for us.

Make front baffle and rear baffle full size as in 15.5 x 34 sides should be 14.5 x 14 and top should be 34 x 14.5. this keeps the baffle from being inside the top and bottom panels and provides more support than just glue and nails holding the baffle to the top and bottom.

[callandor2k]

To much bracing disturbs the air flow in the enclosure. In a box that small add a double baffle and use some 1-2 inch wooden dowel rods from front to back and side to side id say 2 left to right and 2 front to back right next to the sub.

Move the sub all the way to the left as close as you can to the port. This elongates the wave and helps build better pressure in the box. This was typically good for 1 db in our boxes. Add corner rounds ( i prefer concrete cardboard tubes cut in quarters or 2-3" sch 40 PVC cut in quarters) in all inside corners and sand all outside corners to radius. Typically added 1-3 db for us.

Make front baffle and rear baffle full size as in 15.5 x 34 sides should be 14.5 x 14 and top should be 34 x 14.5. this keeps the baffle from being inside the top and bottom panels and provides more support than just glue and nails holding the baffle to the top and bottom.

I removed all internal baffles and replaced them with 1" dowel rods. 2 from right to left and 2 from front to back. Also added a 2nd front baffle. So it looks more like this....



And instead of square corners round off all internal and external corners. Is that were you meant for the dowel rods to be placed? Or did you mean for them to extend through the port area in rear and on side?

[Bwcad1]

No on the inside of the box put a round or sand the corners. the dowels look good the design looks good. instead of adding those 2 short pieces at the end of the left port just make the left side 1 inch longer.

you can see the 45's in this box. add rounds or 45's to inside corners

[callandor2k]

No on the inside of the box put a round or sand the corners. the dowels look good the design looks good. instead of adding those 2 short pieces at the end of the left port just make the left side 1 inch longer.

you can see the 45's in this box. add rounds or 45's to inside corners

Ya I have an Idea for the inside corners. The outside corners I though about doing that to put plastic/rubber corner guards on. Those 2 short pieces on the left of the port are actually part of the front baffles. The front is all one piece including the area around the baffles. I just didn't draw the lines on the overhead view. The frontal view shows it as all one piece. Though I may change that so there is no risk on breaking the MDF around the port while cutting it.

But what about adhesives? I thought about using gorilla glue and 1.5" - 2" coarse thread screws. I know that some people use tight bond and liquid nails. But wouldn't that be a weak bond and prone to coming apart if the sub flexes the enclosure? I've never used tight bond or liquid nails so I don't know how it works.

So what ya think about the RE SXX12 sub?

[colemanyoungerinalaska]

liquid nails has worked just fine for me

[colemanyoungerinalaska]

http://www.audiojunkies.com/blog/346

[callandor2k]

But that does not show the Gorilla Wood Glue. Only Gorilla glue. So I wonder how well the Gorilla wood glue holds up against Tightbond III and Liquid Nails. I have only used Gorilla wood glue and gorilla super glue. So I have no experience in the others.

I may have to try gluing some scrap pieces together and test the strength of the joint with Gorilla wood glue alone.

[Bwcad1]

tightbond II, liquidnails works but not as well and as far as gorilla glue you have to wet all glued surfaces and mdf and water don't mix


I have always used tightbond for every thing wood to wood wood to anything else I use PL premium