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RMS power to sub
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simpleone71
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RMS power to sub
If I had a choice of using a JL Audio w3v3 or w1v2 with 300 watts RMS, would one be better than the other. The w3v3 can handle 500 watts rms and the w1v2 can handle 300 watts rms. I have read that you want to power your subwoofer in the upper 1/3 of it's power handling for best performance, so would using the w1v2 better since I would be at it's max continuous rms?
- MobileAudio219
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simpleone71 wrote:If I had a choice of using a JL Audio w3v3 or w1v2 with 300 watts RMS, would one be better than the other. The w3v3 can handle 500 watts rms and the w1v2 can handle 300 watts rms. I have read that you want to power your subwoofer in the upper 1/3 of it's power handling for best performance, so would using the w1v2 better since I would be at it's max continuous rms?
It's usually best to keep within 80% of the subs RMS, but box design plays a big role in that as well....
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loudwagon15s
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simpleone71
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- Joined: Wed Sep 23, 2009 12:21 pm
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loudwagon15s
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I often wonder why JL ever..but that is only my opinion....
Our woofers can handle WAY more than RMS, Bills woofers can handle WAY more than RMS, and so can most every other manufacturer out there that is a Subwoofer manufacturer First and foremost. Why can't JL?
Our woofers can handle WAY more than RMS, Bills woofers can handle WAY more than RMS, and so can most every other manufacturer out there that is a Subwoofer manufacturer First and foremost. Why can't JL?
IASCA Certified SQ Judge
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CVD Audio Sales and Acquisitions Team
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USACi Certified SQ Judge
MECA Certified SQ Judge
2010 USACi Spring Break Jam Modified SQ Champion
Moderator for https://www.facebook.com/groups/524841581331183/
CVD Audio Sales and Acquisitions Team
http://www.cvdaudio.com
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simpleone71
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- Joined: Wed Sep 23, 2009 12:21 pm
I'm going with JL mostly due to it having an enclosure that will fit behind my center console in my tacoma access cab. The speaker I was looking at was a 4 ohm single voice coil. Also don't want multiple amps on the stock alternator so went with the cadence zrs-9004 which will give me 90 watts rms to my door speakers (image dynamics 6.5 component speakers) and 250 bridged to a sub woofer at 4 ohms. That is why the smaller power. Still haven't decided whether I should go with a 10" or 12" woofer either if there are any suggestions on that. Was looking at the 12" a little more, but maybe with only 250 watts, should stick to 10"?
http://www.dealercostcaraudio.com/cs112rg-w3v3.aspx
I have no preference to them over another brand and am open to any suggestions. My problem is that the space behind my center console to the seat is 13.25 inches. Then at the top of the console is two cup holders that at 11.5 inches tall makes the space only 9.25 inches deep. I'm somehow trying to balance good bass in a sealed enclosure and that space. Although my hair is thinning trying to meet these requirements.
http://www.dealercostcaraudio.com/cs112rg-w3v3.aspx
I have no preference to them over another brand and am open to any suggestions. My problem is that the space behind my center console to the seat is 13.25 inches. Then at the top of the console is two cup holders that at 11.5 inches tall makes the space only 9.25 inches deep. I'm somehow trying to balance good bass in a sealed enclosure and that space. Although my hair is thinning trying to meet these requirements.
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loudwagon15s
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if space is an issue, why not just make your own box to make the best of what you have? I've been hearing a ton of great feedback about dc audio, and know rusty can make a damn good sub, ever considered a level 2 or 3?
http://www.dcsoundlab.com/woofers.html
http://www.dcsoundlab.com/woofers.html
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simpleone71
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