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power vs cone area
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Dragon_fire
- Senior Member
- Posts: 106
- Joined: Sun Mar 27, 2005 4:23 pm
get a three way diamond hex set. Its incrediable. I have 6 inch woofers in the door. 4 1/4 in the kicks, and tweets in the dash. Throwing ~150 watts at each side and they are intense. The woofers are currently crossed at 80hz + and they do the lows with ease. They literally make my shorts wave. Sound quality is amazing as well. You'll hear things on the cd that you never knew were recorded =)
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Dragon_fire
- Senior Member
- Posts: 106
- Joined: Sun Mar 27, 2005 4:23 pm
Around 500-600 for the complete set, depends on what you can work. This is for hex series. The middle set is probably about 400-500 im not sure. I got mine deep discount becuase the guy wasnt selling diamond anymore. You can get the hex 6 1/2 two way set on ebay for 318, which is a great price for em. they usually sell for 450+
- GlassWolf
- Master of My Domain
- Posts: 6725
- Joined: Thu Oct 07, 2004 4:00 am
- Location: Columbia, SC
- Contact:
Judging by his system layout he's not aiming for SPL, and SPL from what I've seen rarely is concerned with SQ so midbass isn't much of a concern in that case. I've used 8" midbass drivers a lot and they work very well.
What you don't want to do is use 8" subs and try to make them into midbass drivers. That works out poorly.
In my case I use 8" midbass, 4" midrange, and 1" tweeter 3-way sets up front. I've used 8" midbass in the rear sail panels of F bodies a lot as well for example. You can use a 6.5" but you'd need one with a fair amount of throw and a lot of power handling to move enough air to have warm midbass, and it still may not roll off well to larger subs that need to be crossed over in the 60Hz range for good SQ. The problem you run into using smaller drivers for midbass is usually mounting depth. A lot of people have thin doors, or doors with a lot of crap in them that prevent the use of deep 6.5" drivers in locations that would be ideal sonically speaking. There are trade-offs either way, but if he's trying to shape a curve with more midbass, and he's usind diamond hex components or looking at a set, I'd think he was leaning toward a daily driver or SQ setup more than worrying about squeezing every last .1dB from the vehicle on a meter.
I may be wrong.
It's happened a time or two.
What you don't want to do is use 8" subs and try to make them into midbass drivers. That works out poorly.
In my case I use 8" midbass, 4" midrange, and 1" tweeter 3-way sets up front. I've used 8" midbass in the rear sail panels of F bodies a lot as well for example. You can use a 6.5" but you'd need one with a fair amount of throw and a lot of power handling to move enough air to have warm midbass, and it still may not roll off well to larger subs that need to be crossed over in the 60Hz range for good SQ. The problem you run into using smaller drivers for midbass is usually mounting depth. A lot of people have thin doors, or doors with a lot of crap in them that prevent the use of deep 6.5" drivers in locations that would be ideal sonically speaking. There are trade-offs either way, but if he's trying to shape a curve with more midbass, and he's usind diamond hex components or looking at a set, I'd think he was leaning toward a daily driver or SQ setup more than worrying about squeezing every last .1dB from the vehicle on a meter.
I may be wrong.
It's happened a time or two.

GlassWolf (aka KikiTheCat)
moderator-administrator