'04 Civic Sedan

MobileAudio219 · Post by **MobileAudio219** » Fri Nov 28, 2008 4:38 pm

So right now you have 2 10" kicker CVR's that are dual 2 ohm and a hifonics 600 watt amp???

If so the subs can be wired to either .5 ohms, 2 ohms, or 8 ohms.

I do not believe the amp would run .5 ohms (atleast not daily), so you'd be stuck with a final load of 2 ohmss, so about 150 watts per sub..

You could add a 3rd sub and wire it down to 1.34 ohms and still get around 150 per sub...

I'm sure Bill or Ryan would be willing to design you an efficient ported box, but I'm not sure you'd be able to fit 3 ported..

I wouldnt mix different subs together...

If you havent bought the cvrs yet, get them in dual 4 ohm so you can wire them down to a final load of 1 ohm... and upgrade them 12's while youre at it (providing you have the room.

thebigo · Post by **thebigo** » Fri Nov 28, 2008 4:57 pm

I have the 2 Kicker 10" CVR's 2ohmh DVC. I want to buy a 3rd one, but I can only find 400w ones and I'm pretty sure mine are only 200w. Would it be a bad idea to have all 3 wired to one ohm (or as close as i can come to 1 ohm) off a 600watt amp? And should I buy a 2ohm DVC or a 4ohm DVC?

And about those buy one get one's, I just got a little excited with the deal lol.

MobileAudio219 · Post by **MobileAudio219** » Fri Nov 28, 2008 6:20 pm

thebigo wrote:I have the 2 Kicker 10" CVR's 2ohmh DVC. I want to buy a 3rd one, but I can only find 400w ones and I'm pretty sure mine are only 200w. Would it be a bad idea to have all 3 wired to one ohm (or as close as i can come to 1 ohm) off a 600watt amp? And should I buy a 2ohm DVC or a 4ohm DVC?

And about those buy one get one's, I just got a little excited with the deal lol.

The 10" cvrs used to be rated at 300 rms, I guess they upped that to 400 now? The 8's are still rated at 200, and the 12's at 400, so I doubt they changed anything other than the reccommended rms... You should be good to go.. Do yours look the same as the new ones???

You'll are going to run 3 subs you'll need to run another 2 ohm dvc to run a final load of 1.34 ohms....

It really depends on how much room you have, I'd rather have 2 ported than 3 sealed....

Tim · Post by **Tim** » Sat Nov 29, 2008 1:54 pm

If you are wanting to port inside the cabin of the car a easy and really cheap way to do it is remove the rear deck speakers, ( if that is an option as I don't know much about the civics.

check the install thread there is a member here falkenbd, I believe. He is doing a complete redo on his system and the pix are good and pretty self explantory. You could pm him if you have question on how he did his.

Ported is always gonna be louder than sealed, fact of life. I saw a install on the 12 volt forum where a guy did his car the way bill is suggesting, port in the back of the box, with the subs firing toward the rear.

good luck

Tim

thebigo · Post by **thebigo** » Sat Nov 29, 2008 6:27 pm

yeah they look the same as the subs I have now. and I'm going to remove the speakers and port it through the rear deck. I'll look into falkenbd's thread. This is my 3rd install, second with an amp, so I'll post pics throughout the process and hopefully get some expert advice. Thanks to everyone for helping me with my stereo!

MobileAudio219 · Post by **MobileAudio219** » Sat Nov 29, 2008 8:37 pm

Tim wrote: I saw a install on the 12 volt forum where a guy did his car the way bill is suggesting, port in the back of the box, with the subs firing toward the rear.

I think Bill was talking about having the ports and subs on the same side, both firing towards the rear....

Though I believe he did an install in his old jimmy/blazer that had the subs firing towards the rear, and the ports firing towards the dash... But it was also a SPL system... Correct me I'm wrong here Bill...

Tim · Post by **Tim** » Mon Dec 01, 2008 3:12 pm

MobileAudio219 wrote:I think Bill was talking about having the ports and subs on the same side, both firing towards the rear....
Though I believe he did an install in his old jimmy/blazer that had the subs firing towards the rear, and the ports firing towards the dash... But it was also a SPL system... Correct me I'm wrong here Bill...

Oh ok my bad,

Tim

thebigo · Post by **thebigo** » Mon Dec 01, 2008 5:49 pm

Ok, I'm designing my box now, here are the specs, let me know if it sounds right. It's a 5 cubic ft box for 3 kicker compVR 10" subs.

40'' l x 16'' h x 17'' d with 2 4''d 9.25''length pvc ports coming out the top. about 3''-4'' will be coming out of the top of the box. I used WinISD (the how to use WinISD thread really helped btw) to calculate everything. I just want to make sure everything sounds about right.

MobileAudio219 · Post by **MobileAudio219** » Mon Dec 01, 2008 7:38 pm

thebigo wrote:Ok, I'm designing my box now, here are the specs, let me know if it sounds right. It's a 5 cubic ft box for 3 kicker compVR 10" subs.

40'' l x 16'' h x 17'' d with 2 4''d 9.25''length pvc ports coming out the top. about 3''-4'' will be coming out of the top of the box. I used WinISD (the how to use WinISD thread really helped btw) to calculate everything. I just want to make sure everything sounds about right.

You'd probably have better results (louder) with the subs and ports firing towards the rear...

If your going to go with round ports and can afford it, go with the flared ports, you can usually pick up a little spl by doing so.. If your on a tight budget and want to use the standard pvc, use sand paper to clean up/round the pvc ends..

thebigo · Post by **thebigo** » Mon Dec 01, 2008 7:48 pm

yeah, I read about sanding the edges... and the ports are going to fire into the cabin through the speaker holes in on the rear deck, they aren't just firing up for no reason. Would it still be louder to fire them towards the rear than to port it into the cabin?