Dragon_fire wrote:Try to match the speakers to the amps, underpowering a speaker is just as bad as too much, if not worse. Underpowering creates distortion which = not good for speakers.
Absolutely false. The only thing less power will do is not allow the sub to exurt as far and play less efficiently. In no possible way does underpowering create distortion.
In some ported boxes depending on design, the speaker's actual impedance at a certain frequency can be as high as 80 ohms. Why?, because that is the nature of the driver to the box at the tuned frequency -physics in other words.
haha now thats some getto style hook up William. But then hes stuck with mono for the front. Setting up the sub in such a way would be such a pain in the ass that at this point in time its shorter to type this out then explain what you'd have to do exactly. A miscalculation could fry that sub quicker then underpowering it would.
William from NOLA wrote:Absolutely false. The only thing less power will do is not allow the sub to exurt as far and play less efficiently. In no possible way does underpowering create distortion.
In some ported boxes depending on design, the speaker's actual impedance at a certain frequency can be as high as 80 ohms. Why?, because that is the nature of the driver to the box at the tuned frequency -physics in other words.
Fair enough, perhaps I got mixed up with how people would underpower and then boost the gain to compensate for it.(in no way implying that this is being done in this situation)
thats what im doing.. i think lol.. i have the positive on the far left + ch and the - on the far right - channel, essentially making it mono, correct? i forgot the vc config when i took it out of the box, but i think its wired for 2ohm. william, do u feel it is ok to keep running it this way?
Dragon_fire wrote:haha now thats some getto style hook up William. But then hes stuck with mono for the front. Setting up the sub in such a way would be such a pain in the ass that at this point in time its shorter to type this out then explain what you'd have to do exactly. A miscalculation could fry that sub quicker then underpowering it would.
Ghetto? lol I just want it to work right :)
On a few amps I've seen, they've let you select if it operates in mono per front or rear. I'm hoping his lets him do so.
MrSoohoo wrote:thats what im doing.. i think lol.. i have the positive on the far left + ch and the - on the far right - channel, essentially making it mono, correct? i forgot the vc config when i took it out of the box, but i think its wired for 2ohm. william, do u feel it is ok to keep running it this way?
erm... not really lol. I'm assuming that's how it says to bridge it; most amps aren't 2 ohm stable when bridged. You're safest bet is either use one of the left or rights, or one VC on each if you can put it in mono.
it all depends on what type of outputs he has, what crossovers he using etc. If there is no dedicated sub output that has been crossed over at the desired frequency it could be trouble to set the internal crossovers on the amp to exactly the same for each mono channel. If you've done this before with a sub with successful results then niffty. Personally I would NEVER do that. Theres too many potential variables that could cause problems. Can it be done, yes. could it be simple, yes. could it also be a nightmare, absolutly.
ok sorry william not sure what u mean, so here is a pic of the amp, ghetto style..
ok so the top 4 are front channels, in which my components are hooked up, essentially getting 50 watts per ch.
for the bottom, the sub is hooked up so that the far left + gets the positive wire, and the far right - gets the neg wire. this is not mono? thats what the manual says.
If your sub is dual 4 ohm and the amp is only 4 ohm stable in bridged mode...then if your sub is wired in parallel then yes...BAD.
If your sub is wired in series, you have nothing to worry about.
Double check your wiring and make sure it isnt wired too low. Made this mistake once w/ a sony amp...ran it at .5 ohm...it didnt last more than 2 weeks...whoooops!
Rockford Fosgate has a wiring wizard on their website to help you check your wiring.
As for the sub, it should get you pretty decent results. Maybe try ported. I kno i had a set of Punch HX2's in a sealed box and i hated how they sounded. RF is more spl oriented IMO.
Ok, the first one is probably the best option for you (if you can switch the rears to mono (rears only). The second pic you have to have mono.
Dragon_fire did point out about crossovers. You would be best off if you have a low pass crossover on the amp (or head unit). Otherwise, it isn't a real big deal, you would have highs coming out of the subs which will make it sound yucky and actually reduce the output of the sub at low frequencies because it has to reproduce the high frequencies it wasn't designed to reproduce as well.
Dragon_fire: What do you mean here? "If there is no dedicated sub output that has been crossed over at the desired frequency it could be trouble to set the internal crossovers on the amp to exactly the same for each mono channel"
yea, ridr4lif, it is in a slot ported box.. seems quite small IMO. ill check that wiring wizard out, but i dont remember the config right now and its too dark to go check. i suppose as long as i dont burn out the amp, i could stand to lose this sub. after all, it was free :-P but yea, thats not cool.. subicide.
most likely, when the amp heats up like that, it must mean that im running it too low, i suppose?
to william, yes, i have them crossed over on a LP filter through my HU and the amp.. on the amp its x'ed at 50hz and on my HU im switching between 50 and 80hz to see what i like better.. my comps are being x'ed over at 80 and 125, not sure which i like better yet.
to william in response to those pics: what is the first one considered? what output would that get me? what is the wiring config?
i dont see why this amp couldnt be mono. i figure in 3 ch mode thats what that rear ch is? im not sure :-/
