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Components: The way to go!
Well the Alpines you're looking at are rated for 75wrms, so the kicker @ 70wrms x 2 @ 4ohm should be enough to power them nicely 
-Michael
http://www.teamcargodzinc.com
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And Proud Sponsor of
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- NorthQuad
- Master of My Domain
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[quote="cargodz"]Well the Alpines you're looking at are rated for 75wrms, so the kicker @ 70wrms x 2 @ 4ohm should be enough to power them nicely ]
Nice! I think mabey I'll just try the Kicker amp first than. If it's taken too many bumps moving around and doesn't work I'll than go buy a new one. Save a bit of money for the next upgrade. :)
Nice! I think mabey I'll just try the Kicker amp first than. If it's taken too many bumps moving around and doesn't work I'll than go buy a new one. Save a bit of money for the next upgrade. :)
- cheapaudio
- Senior Member
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- NorthQuad
- Master of My Domain
- Posts: 1183
- Joined: Tue May 10, 2005 8:00 am
- Location: Alberta, Canada
Damn, I know what you mean.
To tell you the truth, I want the stereo so loud that my that ears are beggin' for mercy. I want the top shelf stuff. Why don't I get the top stuff than? Because I feel guilty for spending more than I have to. It's really dumb because you're right. Why get something and not be happy with it while wondering, geeze, if I had just spent a little more. But you know what? I probably won't get the top stuff. Lol. Just the way I am. We'll soon find out I guess.
To tell you the truth, I want the stereo so loud that my that ears are beggin' for mercy. I want the top shelf stuff. Why don't I get the top stuff than? Because I feel guilty for spending more than I have to. It's really dumb because you're right. Why get something and not be happy with it while wondering, geeze, if I had just spent a little more. But you know what? I probably won't get the top stuff. Lol. Just the way I am. We'll soon find out I guess.
Or you'll be like everybody else constantly upgrading
lol
-Michael
http://www.teamcargodzinc.com
Hear It, See It, Feel It, Punch It!
And Proud Sponsor of
Team Wolf Pack Audio
Authorized Dealer
http://www.teamcargodzinc.com
Hear It, See It, Feel It, Punch It!
And Proud Sponsor of
Team Wolf Pack Audio
Authorized Dealer
That amp won't let you biamp.
Biamping is were you run a separate channel for each speaker. Say you have 2 mids and 2 tweets and no passive x-over. You would need to bandpass the mid (run a low and high pass x-over) and high pass the tweet. That amp won't let you bandpass the mid, and the x-over won't go high enough to HPF the tweet.
Sou your going to be better off getting a component set, with a passive x-over, and using it.
Oh and if you really want loud and clear, stick with a nice 3 way set.
8"s in the doors, 3" or 4" and tweet in the kicks, or a pillars.
Im not a huge fan of running multiple component sets. Im not knocking your stereo cheap audio, but I'm going to use your as an example.
In his durango, he has 8 speakers, not counting the subs. Each speaker is located at a different distance from his ears. Since relative phase is freq, and distance dependent, that means he has 8 different wave forms interacting at his ears. Thats going to cause cancellation of some freqs. There is just no way around it.
Now lets look at my car, and the setup thats going into it.
I'm running a morel 3 way set. So 6 speakers. 2 are in the doors, and 4 are in the a pillars, installed as far fwd as I can get them.
Now there is no way to equalize the path lengths in the doors. So I simply cross the speakers low enough that phase isn't as much of an issue, and use a slight time delay to center the sound. HPF around 80 LPF around 300.
Now we have my mids and tweets in the a pillars. With the seat all the way back, there is only a 10 inch difference between the right and left side. 10 inches isn't perfect, but its DAMN good for a car. Probably the closest your going to get without some serious mods.
So at its worst, I have 4 different path lengths, and each of those has been tweaked to minimize the effects. So I end up with less cancellation, and a well centered sound stage.
Biamping is were you run a separate channel for each speaker. Say you have 2 mids and 2 tweets and no passive x-over. You would need to bandpass the mid (run a low and high pass x-over) and high pass the tweet. That amp won't let you bandpass the mid, and the x-over won't go high enough to HPF the tweet.
Sou your going to be better off getting a component set, with a passive x-over, and using it.
Oh and if you really want loud and clear, stick with a nice 3 way set.
8"s in the doors, 3" or 4" and tweet in the kicks, or a pillars.
Im not a huge fan of running multiple component sets. Im not knocking your stereo cheap audio, but I'm going to use your as an example.
In his durango, he has 8 speakers, not counting the subs. Each speaker is located at a different distance from his ears. Since relative phase is freq, and distance dependent, that means he has 8 different wave forms interacting at his ears. Thats going to cause cancellation of some freqs. There is just no way around it.
Now lets look at my car, and the setup thats going into it.
I'm running a morel 3 way set. So 6 speakers. 2 are in the doors, and 4 are in the a pillars, installed as far fwd as I can get them.
Now there is no way to equalize the path lengths in the doors. So I simply cross the speakers low enough that phase isn't as much of an issue, and use a slight time delay to center the sound. HPF around 80 LPF around 300.
Now we have my mids and tweets in the a pillars. With the seat all the way back, there is only a 10 inch difference between the right and left side. 10 inches isn't perfect, but its DAMN good for a car. Probably the closest your going to get without some serious mods.
So at its worst, I have 4 different path lengths, and each of those has been tweaked to minimize the effects. So I end up with less cancellation, and a well centered sound stage.
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colemanyoungerinalaska
- Senior Member
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