Second order is good for mids and highs cause they tend to roll off at about 12 db anyways. Thats what I have the focals set at, except for the HPF on the mid. Its set at 24db so it will blend with the sub better.
Then I do a pink noise sweep and set the x over points so I get a close to flat responce.
As for X over types, I perfer Linkwitz-Riley, and its probably the most common, but any can work if designed properly.
http://www.rane.com/note160.html (if your in a hurry look at figures 3, 4, 5, and the summery under 5. That will give you a basic idea of the advantages of a LR x over)
What will work the best with the Bravox? That depends on the drivers, what speaker you add in, and how you want them all to match up. There isn't really a one size fits all answer here. But here is an idea. Lets break down the speakers you have, or any set of speakers for the purpose, and look at their specs, where you would want to install them, and any flaws they might have.
For example the focal Utopia mid, and TN52 tweet. Lets say the mid has a peak in it at 5000 herts that you want to get around, and the tweeter being in inverted dome requires a high x over point.
So your factory x over would look like this.
Mid HPF 24 db at 80 herts
Mid LPF 12 db at 2500 herts
Tweeter HPF 12 db at 3000 herts.
Now lets add in a mid range driver, and use the utopia mid as a mid bass. Lets even say the mid bass is in the door, and the tweeter and the mid are in kick panels.
Mid Bass HPF 24 db at 80 herts
Mid Bass LPF 12 db at 400 herts
Mid HPF 12 db at 500 herts
Mid LPF 12 db at 2500 hrts
Tweeter HPF 12 db at 3000 herts
Now if I decided to move the tweeter to the dash, or A-piller I would might change my mid range and tweeter to look like this.
Mid HPF 12 db at 500 herts
Mid LPF 12 db at 4500 hrts
Tweeter HPF 12 db at 5000 herts
Again this is all numbers I just made up, but its a basic idea.
Hay sinister care to bootleg a few copies of your x over designing program?
Second order is good for mids and highs cause they tend to roll off at about 12 db anyways. Thats what I have the focals set at, except for the HPF on the mid. Its set at 24db so it will blend with the sub better.
Then I do a pink noise sweep and set the x over points so I get a close to flat responce.
As for X over types, I perfer Linkwitz-Riley, and its probably the most common, but any can work if designed properly.
[url]http://www.rane.com/note160.html[/url] (if your in a hurry look at figures 3, 4, 5, and the summery under 5. That will give you a basic idea of the advantages of a LR x over)
What will work the best with the Bravox? That depends on the drivers, what speaker you add in, and how you want them all to match up. There isn't really a one size fits all answer here. But here is an idea. Lets break down the speakers you have, or any set of speakers for the purpose, and look at their specs, where you would want to install them, and any flaws they might have.
For example the focal Utopia mid, and TN52 tweet. Lets say the mid has a peak in it at 5000 herts that you want to get around, and the tweeter being in inverted dome requires a high x over point.
So your factory x over would look like this.
Mid HPF 24 db at 80 herts
Mid LPF 12 db at 2500 herts
Tweeter HPF 12 db at 3000 herts.
Now lets add in a mid range driver, and use the utopia mid as a mid bass. Lets even say the mid bass is in the door, and the tweeter and the mid are in kick panels.
Mid Bass HPF 24 db at 80 herts
Mid Bass LPF 12 db at 400 herts
Mid HPF 12 db at 500 herts
Mid LPF 12 db at 2500 hrts
Tweeter HPF 12 db at 3000 herts
Now if I decided to move the tweeter to the dash, or A-piller I would might change my mid range and tweeter to look like this.
Mid HPF 12 db at 500 herts
Mid LPF 12 db at 4500 hrts
Tweeter HPF 12 db at 5000 herts
Again this is all numbers I just made up, but its a basic idea.
Hay sinister care to bootleg a few copies of your x over designing program?