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bridging my 4 ch amp

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Expand view Topic review: bridging my 4 ch amp

by Ryan from Ohio » Mon May 25, 2009 4:39 pm

Thats roughly 110 WRMS.

22 Volts should yield another 10 WRMS -> 120 WRMS total.

by MrSo0h0o » Mon May 25, 2009 12:39 pm

well, I went and played the test tone at 30 out of 35 (~85%) and decided to measure the voltage at the gain I had already set.. BAM! right on the money at ~21V. Maybe my ears do not deceive me after all! This is probably a good number since it is not the full 22.66V calculated at the full 140W.

by MrSo0h0o » Mon May 25, 2009 12:12 pm

Ryan from Ohio wrote:If you insist on turning with the higher power then yes thats what it should read.
oh right, you said i might not want to do it at the higher power. What would be a better number?

by Ryan from Ohio » Mon May 25, 2009 12:11 pm

If you insist on turning with the higher power then yes thats what it should read.

by MrSo0h0o » Mon May 25, 2009 12:06 pm

Ryan from Ohio wrote:Thats true. Mikes FAQ reflects a subs point of view.
1 KHz would probably be a good point.
If you need a straight tone let me know I can probably get you one today, email me
[email protected]
Thanks for your help Ryan, I found test tones here: http://realmofexcursion.com/downloads.htm

Just to make sure with you, the way to calculate the proper voltage is 140W x 4 ohm load and take the square root of that. I calculated 23.66 V.

by Ryan from Ohio » Mon May 25, 2009 12:02 pm

Thats true. Mikes FAQ reflects a subs point of view.

1 KHz would probably be a good point.

If you need a straight tone let me know I can probably get you one today, email me

[email protected]

by MrSo0h0o » Mon May 25, 2009 11:46 am

Ryan from Ohio wrote:I wouldnt go for maximum. I would try to hone in on what your speakers will take.

Just like we told you earlier, you wont hear a difference with 20 WRMS.

But considering your speakers crossover is only a -6dB setup, I wouldnt chance it.

http://www.caraudiocentral.net/forums/s ... php?t=7686
To tune the amp for my components, should I still use the 50-60hz test tone? I was reading somewhere else that for components, a 1khz test tone would be better.

by Ryan from Ohio » Mon May 25, 2009 11:32 am

I wouldnt go for maximum. I would try to hone in on what your speakers will take.

Just like we told you earlier, you wont hear a difference with 20 WRMS.

But considering your speakers crossover is only a -6dB setup, I wouldnt chance it.

http://www.caraudiocentral.net/forums/s ... php?t=7686

by MrSo0h0o » Mon May 25, 2009 10:25 am

Ryan from Ohio wrote:Ok, the front and rears... Fronts are the top row, rears the bottom. They operate independent to one another- so its like 2 amps in 1 heat sink (sorta).
The bridge you take the Left + and Right -.
The picture showing the different wiring methods. Notice the bottom left schematic. Apply this to the top and you will be at 2 channels.
Your speakers will be fine with the little extra power. But to be safe I would set your amp to run at their maximum RMS with the DMM tuning.
Thanks Ryan, I was actually doing some searching and found basically what you said to do. I put the + left on the ch1 +, -left on ch2 -, + right on ch3 + and -left on ch4 -. I ended up having to switch my right RCA to the ch 4 RCA input to get stereo sound and now it works very well.

How would I go about setting my amp to run at its maximum RMS with DMM tuning?

by Ryan from Ohio » Mon May 25, 2009 10:10 am

Ok, the front and rears... Fronts are the top row, rears the bottom. They operate independent to one another- so its like 2 amps in 1 heat sink (sorta).

The bridge you take the Left + and Right -.

The picture showing the different wiring methods. Notice the bottom left schematic. Apply this to the top and you will be at 2 channels.

Your speakers will be fine with the little extra power. But to be safe I would set your amp to run at their maximum RMS with the DMM tuning.

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