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Hey Everyone,
I have a chance to get this amp from a friend and am wondering if its a good idea.Kinda low on Money so i would like some advise. i have two pioneer 4 ohm TS-W251R which are in a sealed box which has only one set of terminals so the subs are bridged at 8 ohm from the box (wired in series). The Amp says it isnt bridgeable at 2 ohms but i'm wondering if it will take it.

amp specs:

Built-in Crossover (80Hz, LPF)
* Selectable Bass Boost (50Hz, 0/6/12dB)
* Speaker Level Inputs
* CEA 2006 Specifications
* Output Power (4 Ohm, <=1% THD) 125 Watts x 2
* Output Power (4 Ohm Bridged, <=1% THD) 380 Watts x 1
* Output Power (2 Ohm, <=1% THD) 190 Watts x 2
* Signal to Noise (1 Watt into 4 Ohms) 75 dBA
* Dynamic Power (4 Ohm) 130 Watts
* Peak Music Power 760 Watts
* Number of Channels 2
* Load Impedance Capability 2~8 Ohm (Stereo)
* 4~8 Ohm (Bridged)
* Continuous Power (4 ohm) 125W x 2
* Continuous Power (2 ohm) 190W x 2
* Continuous Power Bridged (4 ohm) 380W x 1
* Frequency Response 10Hz ~ 50kHz
* Total Harmonic Distortion 0.015%
* Signal-to-Noise Ratio >95dB
* Dimensions 11-13/16"x2-3/8"x 13-1/8" (300 mm x 60 mm x 334 mm)
* Bridgeable
* Channel # Capability 2/1
* PWM Regulated MOSFET Power Supply
* Screw-Type Speaker Terminals
* Balanced Isolator Input Circuit
* RCA Inputs 2 Channel
* Speaker Level Input 2 Channel
* Input Level Control Hi-Volt (400mV ~ 6.5v)
* Built-in Crossover Selectable LPF
* Crossover Frequency Range 80Hz, -12dB/Oct.
* Bass Level Control 50Hz, 0/6/9/12dB

Thanks for your help!

That amp wont handle a 2 ohm load, especially with a stock electrical system in your car. How much does your friend want for it? Depending on price, i'd say buy or dont buy. Running that amp at 4 ohm stereo wont be all that bad, you wont see much of a difference between 125 watts, and 190 watts per channel, plus the subs are rated at 125 watts anyhow.

Well he wants $75 for it so what do u think?

crutchfield wants more than double that, so if everything works with it, i'd say go for it, because it will power your subs perfectly

so should I just go and get a new box for my subs that has two terminals(one for each sub) and wire it using the two channels? If so should i go with a sealed enclosure or should i go bandpass or slotted or ported? thanks a bunch for ur help.

bridging the amp at 8 ohm or running each channel at 4 ohm is the same thing, but it is slightly more efficient to run each channel at 4. What kind of box do you have now? prefab? you can just go to a local radio shack etc to get another terminal cup, or you could just put the wire straight through the box. Pre-fabbed bandpass boxes are a joke, and your prolly better off with a simple sealed box, i wouldnt reccomend a ported pre-fabbed box.

right now I have a prefab sealed box. I guess just because of the ease I will just bridge it to 8 ohm . Do you think I should build a ported enclosure? O and if I bridge it 8 omh what kind of rms/ comtinuous power numbers do u think I'm lookin at? it says at 4 ohm is 380.

same as running each channel at 4 ohm, 125 x 2 = 250, so equaling what your subs are rated for, 125 rms each. A properly designed ported box will make the subs louder, but i'd ONLY do it if you have really done your homework and know proper port length, box volume etc. The faq section here does a good job of explaining it all.

thanks a lot for all your help. Wat do you think about a slotted box vs. a ported one or even a bandpass?

prefabbed ported and bandpass boxes arent the way to go. I'd especially avoid bandpasses with plexiglass because it is not nearly thick enough 90% of the time. Slot ported boxes are a tad step up from sealed in that they will get a tad louder, but aren't ideal because they are often thin, have an unknown tuning frequency, and arent built specifically for you subwoofer. If you dont want to build your own box, i'd suggest sticking with a sealed prefabbed box.