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Anyone that can recomend a good midbass driver that will be powered well with around 50wrms at 4ohms? Its going in my Door and replacing my Current 6 1/2's...
Also when i put them in there, should i put a baffle around the midbass? And finally,
The opening im working with is a 5x7 so i know im going to have to build a baffle board on the front of it, but does anyone know if there are 5x7 midbass drivers?

Was thinking about going with this Tang

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl ... er=264-832

Is this strictly midbass or midbass/range?

midbass range, Basically i want this to pick up the slack where my Highs and subs are missing, so i would prolly say Midrange...

Ok, are you running active, or are you just replacing what you had in there previously on your passive crossover? This could be important.
Yea, running a 2-way, you need midrange. Peerless Exclusives are good if you wanna spend an extra couple bucks. SEAS CA18RNX are also good. Both paper cones. In metal cones, SEAS makes L18RNX/P, which costs just a bitmore. All these drivers are great, but with the metal cones, you need to watch where you crossover.
Dayton also makes some sweet stuff, more bang for the buck. RS150 (6") and RS180 (7").

yea im looking to spend minimal amts here... I am running Passive though. How much are the Peerless though just incase?

SEAS: http://www.madisound.com/cgi-bin/index. ... 5149.11655
Peerless: http://www.madisound.com/cgi-bin/index. ... 5149.11655

You need to check what impedance your current midrange is and match it to your new one or the crossover point is going to double/half (and that's going to mess stuff up ) Your crossover might also compensate with EQ or notch filters depending on the drivers they used, so that might also be a problem.
The Peerless are quality, so I recommend spending a little extra for better midrange. Skimp on anything but the midrange.

Edit: Unless of course it's just simply for sound. The Dayton's will do fine. Also remember that you'll probably get better midRANGE as your speaker gets smaller in diameter. That's not any hard, fast rule, but obviously as you get smaller, you'll also lose midbass. Everything's give and take.

yea currently im running it at 4 ohms... But what im going to do temporarily is run the new Mids off of my A/D/S amp and temporarily run the old ones that i just put in pods on the HU... untill i get a new 4 ch amp... The only thing is that the SEAS 7" Coated speaker is 8 ohm, and it says its reccomended for a sealed box. I would prolly go with that... OR the Dayton RS180

The things on the bottom aren't "recommendations" per se, but more letting you know what F3s you'll achieve from the listed volume/box type. Anything you run in your door will be IB anyway. You'll have to replace that mid with another 4 ohm speaker than. Or build a new crossover.

Hmmm ill have to really investigate things.... Personally i like the Dayton Speaker, but i mean i figured that it will get anywhere from 50w to 90w at 4 ohms, so i would like to just run somethign that is simple and already a 4ohm configuration...