Car Audio Central - Ultimate Car Audio Forum and Community

Rear kit, easy easy easy, 45 min on the first, 15 on the second.

Front Kit, OMG, I raised the car, pulled the tire, LOoked it over, put the tire back on, and considered paying someone else to do it.

Nah, I will do it tommorow, but it will take WAY longer than an hour. (have to find a ride to the hobby shop so I can use the press)

Ok now to my question. I know the factory alignment specs for a 05 accord, but NO ONE (not even the honda dealership I purchased my car from) Knows the specs for a 05 accord with the Factory performance package.

They told me that the HFP package only replaces the tires, struts and springs, so they don't perform and alignemt once they are done.

So I asked why not, it lowers the car by an inch, that WILL change the alignemt, especially the camber.

They told me they would call back, after they talked to the honda tech rep, but they never did.

I want my camber set a little more agressive than the regular accord (the reason I want the HFP specs), and the shop will set my alignemt to what ever I want.

I don't remember all the specs, but the camber is 0 to -.5 deg fro the front, and the back is -.5 to -1 deg for the rear. I am thinking about having them set the camber to the max (-.5 front, and -1 for the rear) but I don't know how close that is the the HFP specs.

So what do you car gods think, stick to the top of the specs, or go a little farther? Say -.75 front, and -1.5 rear. I know I don't want to go much more, cause then I really start wearing down the tires.

FYI right now the front is -1.2 and the back is -2.4

You can eyeball your camber, I did it with my civic and was REALLY close to dead-on. I took it to Butler Tire to have it double checked and he told me I was off by one spacer on the back and some small number on the front.

I say just play with it a little bit, every car is a little different and your riding level is unknown. You stated you didn't want to go aggressive so why not set the camber correctly and call it a day?

Yeah my car is lowered 1.5 or so inches. The tow and camber are both in need of adjustment. So it needs to be done, and I would rather pay and not risk eating up a new set of tires. Sure I could do the camber myself. I was the one who measured it and came up with the numbers its setting at now, but I don't have any skid plates, so it would take a while.

You are correct, I want to set it corectly, but no one knows what the correct settings are for my car. I don't want it nuetral like the non HFP suspencion (what fun would that be) but I don't want to go to agressive (over -1 for the front and -2 for the rear) cause thats when you start wearing down your tires faster.

I guess it comes down to this. How much camber is enough to give me better handeling in a corner, without creating to much added tire wear?

In all honesty I don't know, I took my car to Butler tire and he hooked it to the satellite pad program and changed a few things around for me. Unfortunately I don't know what the settings are. I tried to look it up and still can't find it. When I did my car I put a lot of miles on it and didn't do that much spirited driving so neutral camber was fine for me. I'd recomend doing that if you cannot find any specs or else find something close to neutral and go a little off and see how it feels.

Well the front kits are in. It took about an hour to get the first A arm out, and about 20 min on the second. Once I got the old bushings pressed out, it only took 30 min a side to put it all back together. It really wasn't as bad as it looked.

On a funny note, man my car needs an alignment. It lookes like every wheel points in a diffrent direction.

I got my cold air intake in too, damn that thing is loud. Who knows it might not give me any more horse power, but I did remove 50lbs of random plastic peices that made the stock intake. This dang thing ran from the middle of the engine bay, all the way down behind the front bumper (to a HUGE resonant chamber) back up the front side of the battery, and opened up inside the engine compartment.

I did take the car for a little test drive. I kinda rolled it thru town, and jumped on it once I got out of the village. You could hear the intake take this huge breath of air, and the car just set there. It was like the computer went "wow that was a crap load of air" "Oh crap I should be moving" and off she went.

Note to self "give the computer more time to figure things out before you step on it"

JeremyC wrote:
Note to self "give the computer more time to figure things out before you step on it"

Note to Jeremy: computer chips are our friends and can stop that lil lag

Yeah a chip is on my list, but the only thing I have found online is a v-tech controler. But I would need about a grand for the controler and a place with a dino that can tune it for me.

Unless you know something I don't.

JeremyC wrote:
Unless you know something I don't.

Of coarse I do
Jet makes the V-Force & PCU for the Hondas/ Acuras. It's kinda like a little piggy back plug in that does the same thing as a chip for those vehicles that won't take a chip.
Not sure but Unichip may have one for your car too.

Oh and since I know you're gonna ask...
The Jet one sells for around $270.00... so you get to save some extra pennies :)

Yeah I just looked at their web page, and they said the CUP is the only thing they make for my car.

http://www.jetchip.com/products.asp?pid ... el=751#751

So here is my question. Performance wise, how does it compare to a v-tech controler?