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hrm
Posted: Sun Jul 24, 2005 8:55 am
by Darthness
So.. how doi seal my box real good without using the caulking or what ever and waiting for it to air out.. can i just use wood clue or what? :P basically after i get finished building it tommorow, i'd like to be able to use it tuesday morning or what not.
also, how do i break in my JL 13w1 V2? how long will it take?
Thanks guys.
Posted: Sun Jul 24, 2005 9:54 am
by William from NOLA
You can use Liquid Nails. That dries in less than a half hour depending on the weather, sets in minutes.
Just play it at lower volumes for a while. I'd say about 30 hours of that and it will be ready for you to crank it up.
*Patience is a virtue*
Posted: Sun Jul 24, 2005 9:57 am
by sinister audio
use liquid nails for the seams when your putting it together and you can put it on the inside if you want too. just have it play a test tone for a few hours at low volume. alot of times when i do an install ill get the sub and sub working right after the cdplayer and let it play songs while i do the rest of the install then when your finished getting everything else wrapped up it should be broken in.
Posted: Sun Jul 24, 2005 9:58 am
by sinister audio
damn you replying at the same time i was typing.
Posted: Sun Jul 24, 2005 10:11 am
by William from NOLA
I used Liquid Nails to seal my last box. It worked well, but I believe actual caulking is better. I only used LN because I forgot to buy caulking that time lol, I was like, eh, this should work just as well.
Posted: Sun Jul 24, 2005 10:14 am
by sinister audio
if you have ever tried taking a box apart that has ln on it you know hoe good that stuff works.
Posted: Sun Jul 24, 2005 10:39 am
by smoker
i have pulled boxes out that have been liquid nailed and you can remove the screws and stand on it...its that tough....
Posted: Sun Jul 24, 2005 12:27 pm
by lotas
smoker wrote:i have pulled boxes out that have been liquid nailed and you can remove the screws and stand on it...its that tough....
right but the screws arent necessarily for strength,the screws just hold the boards together while the glue dries. But you are right, its stronger than hell.
but silicone is the best to use for sealing. Make sure you get 100% silicone, not the latex stuff. I reccomend getting clear, typically the more color in the silicone, the less % of silicone is in it.
Posted: Sun Jul 24, 2005 1:34 pm
by JeremyC
William from NOLA wrote: 
but I believe actual caulking is better
Are you talking about cauking (as in painters caulk) or silicone. I perfer silicone caulk for my inside joints. Painters calk is used as a filler, and doesn't really hold much.
Either way, I staple my boxes about every 2 inches, use wood glue on the joints, and then run a bead of silicone on all the inside joints. That seems to work well for me.
Lotus you nailed exactly what I was asking, stay away from the latex painters caulk, it isn't worth a crap for installs and sealing joints.
Posted: Sun Jul 24, 2005 1:53 pm
by William from NOLA
Oh, I mean caulking for sealing the box, not in place of glue. I think on my first box I've built, I used an Acryllic (sp?) type of caulking. At the time, I was reading about howh silicone fumes can damage a sub and I decided against silicon. I can't remember if there was latex in the acryllic or not.