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I built my first box with the help of people from this board a couple years ago. It was for my wife’s S-10. I have since built 10 or so sealed boxes and want to revamp her's.

The truck is an 03 S-10 extended cab.
HU is an Alpine 9813.
The sub is a JL 10w0-4.
The enclosure is .75cf sealed, down-firing 4" off the floor.
The amp is a Kicker KX120 bridged.

The box I made is a giant rectangle with a hinged lid.
It's the width of the cab x the distance from the backs of the seats to the back of the cab x 4" off the floor to 1/2 way up the seats.
About 5' x 2' x 18".
It holds the sealed sub box, amp, and 4 crossovers. The lid has Kicker RS6 mids and tweets mounted facing up.

The box is too big. I have a couple weeks off so it's time to play!

Before I can come up with a design I need to hash out the sub.
The wife likes the current sound.
I want to re-aim the sub either up or forward for the visual. I am also thinking about a ported box, as I've never done one before.

I know what a sub placement/direction will do in the trunk of my car but her sub has been in the truck since day one and I cant re-aim it easily to hear what it will sound like.
So I will rely on your expert opinions!

Sealed or Ported?
Tight end or loose end of enclosure size?
Where can it be aimed effectively?
Keep it boundary loaded?
Will aiming it at the back of her seat (following the angle of the seat) make her "feel it" more?

There are a pair of RS6 mids in the doors with the component tweets in the dash in addition to the RS6 mids and tweets mounted in the box lid.
They both run off of deck power.
I am considering eliminating the 1 pair of crossovers that go with the mids and tweets in the lid. I would also eliminate the tweets in the lid.
I would still run the RS6 mids using deck power but would use the HU crossover.
I dont think I need the tweets & crossovers back there and it would expand my mounting options for the mids (yes she wants the rear fill) and free up a bit of space for design.

Will I miss the rear tweets?
Can I effectivly run the rear mids off the HU crossover?
Assuming I use just the mids in the rear what is a good way to aim them?



Thanks
Kevin

Hmmm....

What kind of power do you have available?

Im going to jump back on the Resonant Engineering bandwagon quick...

The RE series has 12mm one way xmax (That jl in 8.6) and is 175 WRMS but 125-150 will do you right!

And for $77 a sub hard to go wrong!

Anyways...

I would keep the sub firing down. I think you will loose output firing up or forward. Not enough room to fire rearwards.

Port would be cool. Port towards the front where the port has nothing in front of it.

Lose the crossover and tweets in the rear... Find a way to turn them down a bit (fade) to keep the imaging what its supposed to be.

Available power is as stated. The Alpine 9813 is 4x27 RMS or 4x60 peak. The amp is a KX120. That’s it!

The current system sounds fine it's just that the box is too big and is going to be replaced so I'm doing some homework before design.

The only $$ I will spend will be for carpet & MDF.

So your thinking keep it down-firing but port it and aim it towards the front between the seats?

The current box is sealed mean at .75cf. My limits were .5cf to 1.0cf.

The ported box limits are 1.0cf to 1.5cf.
Where should I build it at? Keep it tight, loose or stay with mean?

Will it be considerably louder ported?

What it a good material to use for a port? PVC? ??

Thanks
Kevin

PVC works best...SLot port is even better- use the wood man

As for size the larger the box the louder is will be generally.

Make sure to calulate the port correctly.

Im going to venture and say 3-6 dB louder by going to the port...

Bass is right

sub firing down

port firing forward

loose the rear speakers

I would run the 6.5s in the door, and put a tweeter in the kick, and leave it at that.
Thats the same setup I used in my S10 (except for the ported box) and it worked very well

Oh and yes you will LOOSE SPL and SQ if you fire the sub up or forwards. Trust me I tried it in mine.