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I need help fill in the midbass gaps in the jeep. the boston acoustics 6.5" are not able to keep up with the subs or the mid ranges. its not a phasing issue either, they jsut dont have the efficency and lack in that area. (maybe the use of a good 31 band would help raise the levels some? however I dont like the idea of raising that region to level it out like that.

some things that I am after here are, something pretty efficent and able to keep up with higher spl levels while retaining a good sq. needs to be snappy/punchy yet able to move some air and let you know its there, like a driver driven by a bigger motor. (it is amazing on how loud and clean the bostons can get with 220rms on each side!! LOL)
the kind of sound I guess that I am expecting to get is something that is really tight but loud and able to "buzz" things that arent bolted down if that makes sense. its kinda hard exactly to put into words the feeling that I expect a mid bass dirver to yeild. I dont want it muddy by any means hence the snappy tight sound but it needs to be able to move the rear veiw mirror in its pass band, if the subs are not on, by itself. not for an awe factor, jsut cause I like to have tonz of headroom and when its time to "rock out" its not play time in my book, its time to start in with ear plugs. its time to close your eyes and draw pics of the band playing in your head, and you standing in the first row!! LOL

They will be crossed around 80-250ish actively and power isnt a huge issue but am tinking along the lines of 150 rms (more isnt a bad thing but would like to keep it under 200). 4 ohm would be nice instead of the usual 8 ohm found in most high end home theater of pro audio drivers. A flat impedance curve in that range would be ideal but that prolly isnt going to happen LOL. maybe something that will stay in the ball park of the set impedance. (a zobel network could possibly go into effect here )

Depth is somewhat of an issue, but I can always build out on the outside of the door pannel if absoutley necessary, (nothing bigger than 6" though) and if the drivers are worthy of being shown like that. price is limited too but I can save if the drivers are actually what I am after here, but nothing outrageous like above $400 for a pair. that just dosent sit well with me to spend that kind of money on a system that prolly will not see any type of competition cept for my own . also the type of enclosure and abilities to play in either larger sealed or IB. that is ideally what I am after.
I have had some thoughts of switching to a tube amp to help with some of the higher end distortion (at extremly loud volumes) and get the warmer more fufling sound of a tube amp for the front stage. but I am not exactly sure that a good Butler in a 4x4 (that does see off roading time hehe) would hold up, not to mention all of the extreme bass that flows throughout on a regular basis. jsut dosent sound like a good idea to have an expensive amp like that in there and take a chance of runing such a work of art for my enjoyment of jumping on rocks .

If you know of such a driver that exists please clue me in. I would love to hear your thoughts on something that could or would fit this bill. prolly a bunch of useless rants going on here! !LOL. hopefuly someone can decipher this mess and know of a driver that I am after!! LOL and THX to all you have read this and are still willing to help!!

I wish Adire Audio made a 4 ohm Extremis mid, then you'd have your speaker if you were to modify the door a bit, of course you could always get 2 of them per side and have a lot of headroom :) . The Koda 6 mid is available, though, and has great midbass performance for a 6.5", only $80 per mid. 6.5" subs aren't as good an alternative in your situation as most 6.5" subs aren't made to respond up to 250hz, nor are they made to work well in a door.

umm my door has already been modified to fit the vifa pl 7" mid in there. I didnt like it. too muddy, not efficent enough, and broke up way too early.
the biggest problem I am having with most 6.5's is the efficency of them and the ability, as you said, to play the upper and lower regions with authority.

Three drivers I am looking at now are
#1 http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=264-832

#2 http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=297-449

and #3 the Max Fidelity 170-75L/4 High QTS version.

and some various pro audio 8" drivers, but I jsut dont liwk the idea of putting something like that in my doors. and I dont like the sound of most paer thin drivers in the car audio enviroments, esp not for this type of application.

not sure how loud your wanting the music, but a friend of mine mounted a set of JBL GTI 6 1/2 components on his rear trunk deck lid in his integra. IT still had a stock deck and used an MTX amp to power the JBL's. they had amazing bass. parts of the trunk were rattling even without a sub. he turned the volume up to were the stock front speakers were distorting and the JBL's were still fine and clear. you would need ear plugs in the back seat if he turned the volume up anymore. but the price is a little high on them.

muddybear wrote:not sure how loud your wanting the music, but a friend of mine mounted a set of JBL GTI 6 1/2 components on his rear trunk deck lid in his integra. IT still had a stock deck and used an MTX amp to power the JBL's. they had amazing bass. parts of the trunk were rattling even without a sub. he turned the volume up to were the stock front speakers were distorting and the JBL's were still fine and clear. you would need ear plugs in the back seat if he turned the volume up anymore. but the price is a little high on them.

lol. I have a feeling stock speakers would rattle your trunk if they were attatched to the lid itself. I'm suprised those Bostons weren't enough for you or the Vifas for that matter. Have you heard the XXX mids? Maybe they would suit your needs better.

ya I thought that with it being a complete 3 way component setup they would have accounted for the midbass in that driver, but apperantly not. I mean dot get me wrong here if you were going strictly for sq, they soud great, but they jsut arent loud enough. as for the vifas, well that jsut wasnt my flavor. a little too muddy and could be easily over powered. they were somewhat snappy and could get low as hell but again they just didnt have the volume to go with it, and the sound on them was kind of mufffled in certain regions.

I have looked at the xxx mids, and heard a video clip of ibanez's on realm, but in all honesty dont think they are powerfull enough to keep up with everything else in there. maybe if I had a pair in each door they would be able to get to a point where I need it.
I am a little courious to see some results from the elemental 7" mid bass when they come out.

I was looking at the soundsplinter rp-i 8 lastngiht and if it wasnt for the depth and cutout diameters on that beast I would prolly give that a shot. maybe that could give someone a ball park of what kind of mid bass I am in need of here. hehe.http://www.soundsplinter.com/rli_ignition_series_8_inch_and_10_inch_diy_subwoofer_drivers.html things are massive for a little 8" unit.

im building 2 of those sound splinter 8"s into a center console for my girl friend and those would deffintly handle your midbass, have you thought about building a center console for them and have them aimed to you, it shouldnt mess up your imaging and give you the mids you want

umm how is that NOT goin to mess iwth the imaging? if they are in the center of the vehicle and not on the sides I would think that would throw it WAY off. and NO I have not thought of a center consel as the one I have now is too big for the jeep but not big enough for me!! LOL and honestly I dont htink there is near enough room to mount them much of anywhere without loosing any usable space. THX though

i wouldnt think they wouldnt mess up your imaging if you still used your 6.5s in the door too and have the 8"s pick up the lower end of the mids and maybe some of the higher lows. if you kept your comps and added those in the center i think you would still have great imaging

O didnt know you wer ethinking like that. I still dont knwo though, but do know that the bostons are passivly crossed and there isnt much I could do. maybe up the xover on the alpine but that is kinda defeating the pourpose of them even being in there. If I can find anything that is going to help the problem then the bostons 6.5" are outta there.(3 strikes) LOL. again though they sound fine when it is jsut them playing without the subs, and if I could tone the mid ranges down maybe 4-5db it would all match nicely. they just cant get it up! !LOL and once they do get moving and making some noise they are about at their limits and start to distort or the cones are moving too far.