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3/4" MDF and Porting questions

Posted: Fri Jun 03, 2005 10:06 am
by Audiophile
Is this truly the ideal wood to build a box out of? It seems awful heavy...I'm building a 2 cu.ft. box to go behind the seats in my truck, and from the way it looks, it's going to weigh about 80lbs(just a guestimate)...Should I stick with the 3/4"?

Also, could someone-preferably kiki-help me out with the porting? It's a 2cu.ft. box for my single 12" Kappa DVQ. I've never had to make my own ports before, so if you could...well completely walk me through it that'd be great! :thumbsup

Posted: Fri Jun 03, 2005 10:41 am
by kevinberry1
Yes 3/4 inch mdf is the way to go. It may seem heavy, but you will need it for the pressure produced by a 12" sub. I have a 2.5 sq ft box for 2 12's and it is pretty heavy, but I don't think it is anywhere near 80lbs...
I think kiki will want you to look at a port box calculator that will help you design the correct port volume. Are you doing a slot port or a round port? If you haven't already check out winIsd. It is a great box-building program that you can download for free, and it includes a port calculator.

Posted: Fri Jun 03, 2005 11:03 am
by Scarrell
what kind of subs do you have? and what kind of truck? ive delt with plenty of truck style boxes... yes MDF is the best way to go, but i personally think that if you are doing a low powered system, you could us Particle Board..

Posted: Fri Jun 03, 2005 11:07 am
by Audiophile
I do believe that I'll go with round ports...not positive though. What are the pros/cons to each? Is there any real difference?

I'm playing around with the online version of ISD right now, thanks Kevin!

I swear, people only read 1/2 the posts don't they...12" Infinity Kappa DVQ. 92 Ford Ranger. I've got the box dimensions already laid out, I'm just deciding on a material, but I think I'll just stick with the 3/4. It won't be a low power system ;) . Right now I'll be pushing it with my old Interfire 4700, should get around 300w RMS @ 2ohms, not positive though. Future amping will consist of a 500w RMS.

This install is really only temporary anyway, 6 months tops. I'm buying an MKIII Supra some time this summer...soon as I can find one in my area that I like! :) The Supra's getting 2 W7's with 1000/1's on each one in a fiberglass enclosure residing in the hatch and possibly the area where the back seats were once located.

Posted: Fri Jun 03, 2005 11:13 am
by kevinberry1
Be sure to post some pics of that Supra!!! I would like to see that install. Do you really want 2 W7's in a hatchback??? You definitely will need some earplugs :surprised

Posted: Fri Jun 03, 2005 11:16 am
by Audiophile
*raises eyebrows* I know :)

I'm going for a daily driven stereo that will also be competition worthy. Should be one loud motha. JL Components in the front too driven by...bah I forgot what kind of increments JL's amps come in. I think it was like 300/2 or something to that effect. Alpine CDA-9827 is my headunit of choice...probably not the best thing in the world, but I love the looks and its user-friendliness!

Posted: Fri Jun 03, 2005 11:28 am
by Audiophile
BTW...noob question: WTF is Acoustic Power?

Posted: Fri Jun 03, 2005 11:43 am
by kevinberry1
I'm not sure about acoustic power. I don't have the program here at work, so I can't look to see what it is. If I remember correctly it may be the power you plan on giving your speaker(s), but I'm not sure. When using that program make sure the T-S parameters are correct for your model of driver. Sometimes the preset drivers are for older models. You can find these in the speaker's manual or online pretty easily.

Posted: Fri Jun 03, 2005 11:51 am
by Audiophile
T-S?? Say wha? All I'm doing is the port calculator. There aren't any "T-S" parameters...

Posted: Fri Jun 03, 2005 11:56 am
by kevinberry1
Sorry if I confused you :)
You only need the TS parameters if you use the box building part of the software. For port construction I have no idea what acoustic power would be.