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RMS power to sub

Posted: Sun Oct 04, 2009 5:39 pm
by simpleone71
If I had a choice of using a JL Audio w3v3 or w1v2 with 300 watts RMS, would one be better than the other. The w3v3 can handle 500 watts rms and the w1v2 can handle 300 watts rms. I have read that you want to power your subwoofer in the upper 1/3 of it's power handling for best performance, so would using the w1v2 better since I would be at it's max continuous rms?

Posted: Sun Oct 04, 2009 6:32 pm
by MobileAudio219
simpleone71 wrote:If I had a choice of using a JL Audio w3v3 or w1v2 with 300 watts RMS, would one be better than the other. The w3v3 can handle 500 watts rms and the w1v2 can handle 300 watts rms. I have read that you want to power your subwoofer in the upper 1/3 of it's power handling for best performance, so would using the w1v2 better since I would be at it's max continuous rms?

It's usually best to keep within 80% of the subs RMS, but box design plays a big role in that as well....

Posted: Sun Oct 04, 2009 7:33 pm
by loudwagon15s
between those two subs, prolly the w3 as it has a higher thermal power handling. Both subs can be equally as loud as each other depending on the enclosure with the same power.

Posted: Sun Oct 04, 2009 10:12 pm
by NorthQuad
I'd personally go with the 500rms sub. And go with a properly designed vented enclosure. Build the right enclosure and those 300rms watts of power will make the 500rms max. recommended watts sub pound.

Posted: Mon Oct 05, 2009 2:12 pm
by simpleone71
The amp I wanted was no longer available, so I ended up with a Cadence zrs-9004, so now it would only be 250 watts rms bridged. That would closely put me at 80% with the jl audio W1v2. Would this fact change anyone's mind? The speaker I'm looking at comes in a sealed enclosure from JL audio.

Posted: Mon Oct 05, 2009 6:40 pm
by loudwagon15s
if your going to build your own enclosure that takes into account your small power, then the w3, if your just going with the small sealed enclosure from jl then i'd go with the w1. May i ask why your going with jl? dont they come in crazy coils like dual 3 and dual 6?

Posted: Mon Oct 05, 2009 7:04 pm
by OnYrMrk
I often wonder why JL ever..but that is only my opinion....

Our woofers can handle WAY more than RMS, Bills woofers can handle WAY more than RMS, and so can most every other manufacturer out there that is a Subwoofer manufacturer First and foremost. Why can't JL?

Posted: Mon Oct 05, 2009 7:20 pm
by simpleone71
I'm going with JL mostly due to it having an enclosure that will fit behind my center console in my tacoma access cab. The speaker I was looking at was a 4 ohm single voice coil. Also don't want multiple amps on the stock alternator so went with the cadence zrs-9004 which will give me 90 watts rms to my door speakers (image dynamics 6.5 component speakers) and 250 bridged to a sub woofer at 4 ohms. That is why the smaller power. Still haven't decided whether I should go with a 10" or 12" woofer either if there are any suggestions on that. Was looking at the 12" a little more, but maybe with only 250 watts, should stick to 10"?


http://www.dealercostcaraudio.com/cs112rg-w3v3.aspx

I have no preference to them over another brand and am open to any suggestions. My problem is that the space behind my center console to the seat is 13.25 inches. Then at the top of the console is two cup holders that at 11.5 inches tall makes the space only 9.25 inches deep. I'm somehow trying to balance good bass in a sealed enclosure and that space. Although my hair is thinning trying to meet these requirements.

Posted: Mon Oct 05, 2009 7:50 pm
by loudwagon15s
if space is an issue, why not just make your own box to make the best of what you have? I've been hearing a ton of great feedback about dc audio, and know rusty can make a damn good sub, ever considered a level 2 or 3?
http://www.dcsoundlab.com/woofers.html

Posted: Mon Oct 05, 2009 7:58 pm
by simpleone71
Now there is def. a problem for me.....building a box. I once built a bird house and it was condemned by the housing authority :surprised .