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Input from the pros
Posted: Sat Sep 05, 2009 7:53 am
by MattismodderX
Ok my knowledge of car audio as a whole is pretty good.. much above the average "hey look at my car it has bass" types of people. but i was going to order the Fi BL 15" sub and i cant really find the right kind of amp for it. it needs 1000wrms at 2ohms. most amps i see will do 900wrms at 4ohms. i need a good amp!
Posted: Sat Sep 05, 2009 8:08 am
by aaronrchr
Why not order a dual 2 ohm configuration so that you can wire it down to 1 ohm. For the most part amps that can make that power at 1 ohm are cheaper than those that will at 2. Will you be ordering it with any options?
Posted: Sat Sep 05, 2009 8:19 am
by Ryan from Ohio
aaronrchr wrote:Why not order a dual 2 ohm configuration so that you can wire it down to 1 ohm. For the most part amps that can make that power at 1 ohm are cheaper than those that will at 2. Will you be ordering it with any options?
Quoted for truth.
You will be in the market for a Class D amp then.
Posted: Sat Sep 05, 2009 8:54 am
by MattismodderX
to be 100% honest im not really sure about what the different ohms establish. what sounds they produce etc.
edit: the sub im ordering is the Fi Bl 12" instead because im purchasing bwcad's horn box from the buick. one of the options is dual 1 or 2 ohms. whats the difference?
Posted: Sat Sep 05, 2009 9:12 am
by Bwcad1
You want the dual 2 so you can wire to a 1ohm stable (monoblock amp) all the ohm means is the resistance of the voice coil.
Posted: Sat Sep 05, 2009 10:26 am
by falkenbd
You could easily get the dual 4, and an amp that does like 500-750 wrms @ 2 ohms and be just fine.
Just because it can take 1000 wrms doesn't mean you need to give it 1000 wrms.
Do you know how LOUD the difference between 500w and 1000w is before you consider in power compression? (HINT, doubling the power doesn't make it twice as loud)
Posted: Sat Sep 05, 2009 10:47 am
by aaronrchr
falkenbd wrote:You could easily get the dual 4, and an amp that does like 500-750 wrms @ 2 ohms and be just fine.
Just because it can take 1000 wrms doesn't mean you need to give it 1000 wrms.
Do you know how LOUD the difference between 500w and 1000w is before you consider in power compression? (HINT, doubling the power doesn't make it twice as loud)
True but an amp that does that power @ 2 ohms will most likely do 1000-1500 @ 1 ohm if it's stable that low. Why not give the sub all the power it can handle comfortably if there is an amp in your price range that will do so?
Posted: Sat Sep 05, 2009 10:52 am
by jgs07
falkenbd wrote:You could easily get the dual 4, and an amp that does like 500-750 wrms @ 2 ohms and be just fine.
Just because it can take 1000 wrms doesn't mean you need to give it 1000 wrms.
Do you know how LOUD the difference between 500w and 1000w is before you consider in power compression? (HINT, doubling the power doesn't make it twice as loud)
i think FI only makes their subs in d1 and d2
Posted: Sat Sep 05, 2009 11:20 am
by Ryan from Ohio
For 1000 WRMS or so of power you will get it cheaper at 1 Ohms than at 2 ohms.
If you want some prices and options on brand new stuff hit me up. If you got a budget to work within let me know.
I bet you would like the American Bass VFL 80.1... I can give you a good price too.
http://americanbassusa.com/front/showco ... fileid=291
Posted: Sat Sep 05, 2009 2:05 pm
by falkenbd
aaronrchr wrote:True but an amp that does that power @ 2 ohms will most likely do 1000-1500 @ 1 ohm if it's stable that low. Why not give the sub all the power it can handle comfortably if there is an amp in your price range that will do so?
1 ohm is hotter and wears shit out faster, changes the THD of the amp (for the worse), and damping factor (for the worse)...
And you can hardly tell the difference between 750 wrms and 1000 wrms on music.
playing devil's advocate here, making you think (hopefully) and not just buy into the hype.
A well designed box, and placement in the car can more than make up for the difference between simply doubling the power.