flashing red, oh no

falkenbd · Post by **falkenbd** » Wed Oct 08, 2008 5:43 pm

The red light of protection on my Kicker KX350.4

WTF do I do...

There is a slight possiblity that the wires on one of my tweeters crossed. Not sure tho, but the amp cut off last night.

I checked the wires and the ground was loose, so I tightened it thinking I'd found the problem. NOW I get flashing red whenever I turn the amp on.

I disconnected all the speaker wires and the RCA and turned it on and I still get the flashing red light.

Is there any way to get the amp to reset out of protect mode? Does it mean the amp is toast?

Bwcad1 · Post by **Bwcad1** » Wed Oct 08, 2008 6:04 pm

amp's toast. sorry man.

loudwagon15s · Post by **loudwagon15s** » Wed Oct 08, 2008 8:55 pm

http://www.db-r.com/repairs/index.html

or warranty if you have it.... that sux bro

falkenbd · Post by **falkenbd** » Thu Oct 09, 2008 5:31 am

what causes that kind of thing? I suppose I should check the resistance on each speaker wire?

I might try to fix it myself if its possible, that is if I can't warranty it.

Bwcad1 · Post by **Bwcad1** » Thu Oct 09, 2008 5:42 am

Typically three major types of failures. Low impedance, Short's and Low 12v Voltage. Other major types of failures could be thermal Failure Low or Spikes in the signal voltage. From what it sounds like you roasted a few FET's in the amp. which could be cause by any of the aforementioned conditions.

Here is an IFism

If you ground wire was loose you could have caused a low power input voltage condition through greater resistance on the ground thus frying the FET's. However in most cases this type of failure is a short if one of your wires isnt connected properly on your speakers and say the positive comes off the speaker and touches the chassis of the car it shorts and that WILL fry the amp.

falkenbd · Post by **falkenbd** » Thu Oct 09, 2008 6:23 am

I'm going to say it was probably the low voltage situation, the ground was loose. The tweeter issue I mentioned above was only mentioned because I pulled the sail panel off and looked at the back of the tweeter, which was still connected but the electrical tape that was covering the disconnects had slid down. I don't think they crossed or grounded but it would be a very slight possibility.

I have the new DLS a6 also hooked up to my subs, and it pulls a lot of amperage (altho I still have a 150 amp fuse which hasn't blown) There might have been some voltage drops (i'm not sure how much) in the system because I noticed my lights were dimming a bit when I turned it up.

falkenbd · Post by **falkenbd** » Thu Oct 09, 2008 7:35 pm

what makes you say its toast for sure? just curious... I thought the protection mode was to protect the amp from getting fried, not telling you that it is fried.

Bwcad1 · Post by **Bwcad1** » Thu Oct 09, 2008 8:14 pm

you unplugged everything from the amp right? and it still went straight into protect? Then its blown. protection circuits protect 3 ways Thermal Impedance and Voltage. they will also go on and stay on if anything internally has failed.

falkenbd · Post by **falkenbd** » Fri Oct 10, 2008 5:40 am

I have 1 thing left to check then, make sure its still getting proper voltage.

Bwcad1 · Post by **Bwcad1** » Fri Oct 10, 2008 11:02 am

If you unplugged everything but power and its red its dead.