I just can't bring myself to install speakers in the rear doors. I really enjoy having the sound up front. I have little remaining options left for adding more speakers up front without some custom work included. But I'm reluctant in doing so as I really don't want to cut into the panels. And investing in more panels is out because the price is too high for my pockets.
So, I was wondering what you all thought about this bad boy, think it'd sound decent? It would match the look of my Panasonic HU really well too, which would be a bonus.
I'm guessing by your responce and the lack of anyone else responding that this really wouldn't be worth trying. I think I'll skip on buying it than. Just keep searching for somethin' else. Thanks, Ryan.
Well, I'm not against adding midbass to the rear doors but I'd like to add volume to the highs in the front stage first. It isn't quite loud enough for me.
At the volume level I've been playing the music at lately the 6.5 comps up front are maxed out. I play the music two notches below the point where the 6.5's start to destort. The tweeters are fine but the mids start to pop. Even playing country.
I don't want to have to change the bass level on the 6.5's anymore though. They're almost at the point of being annoying, as I'm starting to hear that tinny kind of sound out of them. If there was enough room in the front doors, I'd just slap another set of 6.5's in and the problem would be solved.
Since adjusting the frequency on the amp for the subs to the lowest setting, I've been really happy with the bass. I will add midbass soon when the bank account agrees with it but for now, it's all front stage on my to-do list.
Ok heres the thing. If you do a dedicated mid bass in the rears, you can cross your 6.5s in the front over higher, and get more output out of them, without the popping and distortion.
I believe it takes 4 times the excursion for a speaker to play one octave lower at the same volume.
So cross your mids over higher, get a nice 7 or 8 for the rear door, and let it fill in were your 6.5s are lacking.
Oh man, your estimate of my audio capabilities is too high. I hate to use the term but I'm a 'noob' and seem to be unable to elevate much above that level with car audio.
"Crossing my 6.5's over higher." If that means turning the frequency on the amp higher, I understand what you mean. If not, straight over mah head.
But I'm pretty sure I know what you mean. If I can get the mids to play at a higher frequency, I can get them to produce more volume without distorting. Then, by adding mids in the rear doors that can produce the midbass the 6.5's up front are lacking, I can acheive the volume and sound I'm after. Something like that?
Just make sure the speakers you put in the back will work well as a dedicated mid bass.
So the bigger you can fit, the better.
Two little tricks for you to remember.
Most speakers can't play more than 3 octaves well (an octave is a doubling of freq)
Going down one octave at the same volume, increases the excursion by 4.
So by letting your mids in the front play higher, your helping them out in two ways. One they have less to play, and 2 they don't have to move so much, trying to play the lower freqs.
So when your ready we can help you pick out a dedicated mid, and an amp to push them.
Sweet. I was looking at the Kicker SSMB8's earlier for mids in the rear doors. I'm not sure if that's a decent choice or not. It's the only thing I could really find that had a free air capable description. Assuming I need free air capability mids.
As for an amp, I just purchased an Alpine MRP-F550 this past week or so. Which has RMS power ratings of 90x4 @ 4ohms - 125x4 @ 2ohms - 250x2 @ 4ohms.
The Kicker amp I have running the 6.5's at the moment has RMS power ratings of 70x2 @ 4 ohms - 210x1 in bridged mode - 105x2 @ 2 ohms.
