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Building a Front stage from scratch
Looking at your type of car, I think 2 way is the way to go. How I'd weigh it out for you:
Either a SEAS W18NX, Peerless Exclusive 7", or perhaps that new SEAS driver would be my choices in your situation. The Dayton References and SEAS L18s are nice metal cone drivers, but for you I'd recommend something easier to work with.
Either a SEAS W18NX, Peerless Exclusive 7", or perhaps that new SEAS driver would be my choices in your situation. The Dayton References and SEAS L18s are nice metal cone drivers, but for you I'd recommend something easier to work with.
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solacedagony
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subster87
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i did decide on the w18nx i can work with the price its good bang for the buck even at 158 a piece. It ends up costing about the same as my 3 way set up except the active x over will be a bit less expensive. SO sound quality should be stellar with tweeter maybe 2 inches above the midrange. The midrange in factory locations, The doors already have a coat of second skin sludge. And will get another before final install. Now on to pickin my tweeters. O yea whats a good ball park x over point on the w18nx
mmmm inverted 18!!!!:bow

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solacedagony
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That was in reference to my message about the low crossover point because of the junk on the graph.Jonathan wrote:BTW, that Excel breakup isn't that bad. It's a minor peak, but they test in an enclosure, so the rising response due to baffle step makes the peak look worse than it really is. It's very manageable either way. I'd still cross at or below 3k though.
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solacedagony
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You have a set of those, correct? What crossover point did you pick and what tweets did you pair them with? Or did you not get a chance to try them out yet?Jonathan wrote:I just meant it won't require any special processing, no notch filters or anything. Sonically, the breakup isn't unpleasant either.
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solacedagony
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