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falkenbd wrote:. If you really don't give a shit, just let me know and I'll waste my time elsewhere. But if you want to discuss this stuff at all, I'll be glad to continue.
I'm not trying to put you down, and I know that you enjoy your stereo as is. Just challenging you to take that extra step and hear the difference for yourself. You are working hard, and I'm not trying to discount that... Keep it up...

I never said that, never meant to imply that I dont, I appreciate everyones opinion and input, or I wouldnt have asked for it. I agreed with your post on making baffles for the speakers, I also agreed with Terry that I hadnt experienced any negatives, and I also said I would be redoing the doors later on. I understand how the sound deadner works, I really do, I know the hows and whys of it. I understand front wave and back wave, and cancellation (well sort of on the cancellation). I know I got in a hurry and cut corners, but Im like that I get anxious.

I know you werent trying to put me down, but it sortof came off that way. I like to debate and discuss, just dont look down your nose at me.

By all means lets keep the discussion going, Im here to learn as I sure are alot of other people.

Tim

but it sortof came off that way

thats why i posted. ive done exactly what tim has done many times over and never used wood or sheet metal or fiberglass to cover holes. there is a point of no return and if your familiar with these trucks that would be overkill with most systems.

You know, reading this just made me think of something.

There's a local guy that does HVAC systems and he scraps all the old sheet metal ducking he pulls from his jobs. Anyways, my uncle stopped by there one day and bought a whole truck load for it for like 5 bucks, so it might be a cheap way to fill any voids??????

Just thought I would mention that.

EDIT: I'm not saying your door needed it, but if you ever decided to do it in the future it might be worth checking out.

MobileAudio219 wrote:You know, reading this just made me think of something.
There's a local guy that does HVAC systems and he scraps all the old sheet metal ducking he pulls from his jobs. Anyways, my uncle stopped by there one day and bought a whole truck load for it for like 5 bucks, so it might be a cheap way to fill any voids??????
Just thought I would mention that.
EDIT: I'm not saying your door needed it, but if you ever decided to do it in the future it might be worth checking out.

That shit will resonate worse then my pp at a strip club.

Bwcad1 wrote:That shit will resonate worse then my pp at a strip club.

Really? I figured a small area (like 6"x6") with some sound deadener over it would be pretty stout?

MobileAudio219 wrote:Really? I figured a small area (like 6"x6") with some sound deadener over it would be pretty stout?

If your putting deadener over it it would be just like the sheet metal on your car just a bit thinner.

It would work as long as you deaden'd it.

Bwcad1 wrote:If your putting deadener over it it would be just like the sheet metal on your car just a bit thinner.
It would work as long as you deaden'd it.

Exactly! You screw it into place, then cover it with deadener. That's what I meant! It gives the deadener a good base!

that aint a bad idea, I like the input i get from you all. thanks for the input and advice and ideas and support and.....LOL

tim

welding it in place would prolly be a lot better, but if thats not possible, i'd at least put some high density foam between the existing metal and the new metal

loudwagon15s wrote:welding it in place would prolly be a lot better, but if thats not possible, i'd at least put some high density foam between the existing metal and the new metal

butyl rope would be even better. or silicone/rtv sealant. (its removeable and separates the 2 parts quiet will)



Tim, I'm not trying to look down my nose, like you said, you know that.... Trying to be helpful, in the open so maybe everyone here can benefit. Not saying that I know it all, and I'm not saying that your way doesn't work. It works but has its limitations.

Bitching about someone sharing knowledge is pretty counterproductive. Tim knows damn well I'm not here to belittle him. I do like the way the sub box turned out, and its obvious that Tim is capable of doing stuff right. I'm trying to do a little more than just say "good job"... Lets take it to the next level :)



Haven't had a lot of time to come post lately, but here are some of the reasons I am making suggestions.

If the rear wave is allowed to interfere with the front, it can effect tonality. The rear wave can commingle with the front, causing cancellation, which is lowering the output of the affected frequencies. This can lower midbass output, and could even change the sound of a voice or instrument in the music reproducted. This is why I recommend sealed as best as possible the rear wave and front wave by closing up any and all holes. Putting a true sound barrier over the entire inner door skin also can help this (and block road noise)

I used the same mids you have in there (i sold them to you, duh)... There are a couple reasons I recommend baffles. First, its a stamped basket, if the sheet metal isn't perfect, or you aren't very careful screwing them down you could warp them. Second, it helps stop the transfer of energy into the sheet metal of the door. You can get those speakers to image a pretty well, with some tweaking I could get drums to be coming right out of the center of my dash. But the minute something in the door buzzes or rattles, the image goes to shit and the sound is coming out of both doors again. There are other reasons to use a baffle as well, that are in regard to the response of the speaker, don't really have time to get into that right now tho.


How much power are you giving those mids? Using the passive crossovers?