Help deciding on amp for subs

falkenbd · Post by **falkenbd** » Thu Feb 18, 2010 10:41 am

Bill you oughta get some different amps. You are in luck, RFO sells american bass.

Ryan from Ohio · Post by **Ryan from Ohio** » Thu Feb 18, 2010 11:29 am

I think you need to cool your jets.

I wasnt a dick to you and your not going to be a dick to me.

Consider that fair warning.

Ryan from Ohio · Post by **Ryan from Ohio** » Thu Feb 18, 2010 12:12 pm

Bwcad1 wrote:Its so inflexible i was able to wire 8 amps so tight next to the amp you cant even see the wire.

Its not nearly as flexible as copper.

PM me your addy. I will send you what I got left.

Se if its as flexible as the stuff you got. Maybe they revamped it some?

Bwcad1 · Post by **Bwcad1** » Thu Feb 18, 2010 12:18 pm

Ryan from Ohio wrote:Its not nearly as flexible as copper.
PM me your addy. I will send you what I got left.
Se if its as flexible as the stuff you got. Maybe they revamped it some?

y is it not as flexible as copper? your a machinist you probably know metals as well as i do.

Ryan from Ohio · Post by **Ryan from Ohio** » Thu Feb 18, 2010 12:55 pm

Aluminum isnt as soft of a metal as copper.

The jacket maybe stiffer also.

At any rate its not as flexible as the copper. At least the stuff I have.

callandor2k · Post by **callandor2k** » Thu Feb 18, 2010 3:58 pm

Bwcad1 wrote:As far as the battery question, the shuriken battery is designed as a secondary battery its not a normal starting battery. Its not a capacitor its still a battery just different just like a yellow top and red top from optima. If you put a kinetic under the hood you would probably be fine. I for one always like to put my batteries as close to the source as possible and adding a second battery works great. I still say add a second battery like the kinetic 600 or shuriken. For fusing you will need to fuse that wire at the back battery as well.

Ya after I went to bed I realized I would need 2 fuses on the main line. 1 on each end of the wire to protect both batteries. I think I am just gonna go with a Shuriken for now. And if I ever need a new main battery I'll go Kinetik then. And still use the Shuriken in the trunk. Now I just gotta figure out where to put the battery. The sub box takes up 1/3 of my trunk (give or take a little). May have enough room beside the box to make a small box for it to set in.

Oh which reminds me. Since mounting amps on the back or top of sub boxes is not a good idea. What about mounting them upside down on the bottom side of the rear deck between my rear speakers?

Bwcad1 · Post by **Bwcad1** » Thu Feb 18, 2010 4:32 pm

Mounting them on the box is fine as long as the box doesn't flex like crazy. Amps are gonna see vibration just from being in your car so the box wont hurt as long as its not going ape shit.

btw the fuse protects your car not the battery :)

Bwcad1 · Post by **Bwcad1** » Thu Feb 18, 2010 4:39 pm

Ryan from Ohio wrote:Its not nearly as flexible as copper.
PM me your addy. I will send you what I got left.
Se if its as flexible as the stuff you got. Maybe they revamped it some?

odd...

Brinell hardness of 3003 Aluminum (most common for wire) 28-40 depending on temper.

Brinell hardness of 110 Copper (most common for wire) 40-44 depending on temper.

Ryan from Ohio · Post by **Ryan from Ohio** » Thu Feb 18, 2010 5:20 pm

odd but true.

I dug it out of the drawer. I got about 1' of it left. The rest went in the Saturn- thought I pulled it but didnt.

It does flex and move but not near as easy as the IOXS copper stuff I have (also from my drawer stash).

Another thing it does, which I forgot about. After cutting it and messing with it, the core bundles in the center worked out of one side a bit.

Again, the copper wire doesnt do that...

The picture sucks, but shows what its doing.

callandor2k · Post by **callandor2k** » Thu Feb 18, 2010 5:45 pm

Bwcad1 wrote: btw the fuse protects your car not the battery :)

Yes I know. You knew what I meant.