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NEw BOX for the Q18
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subster87
- Senior Member
- Posts: 674
- Joined: Mon Jul 24, 2006 7:39 pm
- Location: Lock Haven, PA
- Contact:
glasswolf where can i get a good cost effective subsonice filter??? and thank you fishy for the info so im gonna go with your recommendations on the port length stick to 3 inches wide and 18.5 hieght. And a cover for the port will probably be nessacary even with the air velocity of a port it wouldnt make noise wiht acoustical transparent covers????
mmmm inverted 18!!!!:bow

I was going to suggest you port on one of the sides, but wasn't sure if you had the clearance. I'd think facing the rear of the trunk would be best,
http://www.teamrocs.com/technical/pages/aiming.htm
but I defer to those with more practical experience.
In 20 years of playing with car audio I've only had three enclosures that "worked" for me, a pair of ported 10w5's, a sealed 15w5, and the ported 10w3's I've now had for 8 years. Of these the 15w5 enclosure is the only one I built myself. It actually sounded the "best" of all three. It just didn't get as loud. I guess what I'm saying is you should take my recommendations with a grain of salt as they're based mostly on things I've read coupled with an Ocean Engineering background which included two sonar related acoustics courses. Theory is great and all. It can point you in the right direction, but "doing" is what counts. Just ask any tech. The surest way to screw up a project is let an "Engineer" become involved, hehe.
That being said, a picture is worth a thousand words. Post a couple. Diagrams would help too.
:)
http://www.teamrocs.com/technical/pages/aiming.htm
but I defer to those with more practical experience.
In 20 years of playing with car audio I've only had three enclosures that "worked" for me, a pair of ported 10w5's, a sealed 15w5, and the ported 10w3's I've now had for 8 years. Of these the 15w5 enclosure is the only one I built myself. It actually sounded the "best" of all three. It just didn't get as loud. I guess what I'm saying is you should take my recommendations with a grain of salt as they're based mostly on things I've read coupled with an Ocean Engineering background which included two sonar related acoustics courses. Theory is great and all. It can point you in the right direction, but "doing" is what counts. Just ask any tech. The surest way to screw up a project is let an "Engineer" become involved, hehe.
That being said, a picture is worth a thousand words. Post a couple. Diagrams would help too.
:)
I'd be a little worried about putting grill cloth right over the port termination. I'd build me a grill cloth "box" that let the port breathe just a bit. If I understand acoustic transparent materials they're beneficial because they allow sound waves to propagate through them w/o reflections. Still, it'd seem to me anything covering a port termination would inhibit airflow, but if you allowed a little space and place it where the air velocity is not so high the effects should be lessened quite a bit. All the ported home loudspeakers I've seen leave some "breathing" room between the port and speaker cover.
Of course this is all conjecture. I've never tried it.
:P
Of course this is all conjecture. I've never tried it.
:P
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subster87
- Senior Member
- Posts: 674
- Joined: Mon Jul 24, 2006 7:39 pm
- Location: Lock Haven, PA
- Contact:
its exact im quite good at math i understand oddly enough the box came out to exactly 8.25 it took me a couple days to get it all right but yeah its sound weird but its right. And how many angles can i put in a slot port becuase to reach that length i will need at least two will that make a difference
mmmm inverted 18!!!!:bow

I was wondering how you figured out the volume of your spare tire well. Before I learned about "sand" I filled my JL stealthbox with water and poured it into a measuring cup, hehe.
I've never built a slot port but JL uses "L" ports all the time in their designs:
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/pdfs/11636.pdf
The only thing I might be concerned about is the "corner" of the "L". You'd probably want to radius the inside corner with a sander/grinder and fill the outside with something to smooth out the airflow(maybe calk in 1/4 of a piece of PVC cut lengthwise?). It may not be that big of deal however, if there's not a significant amount of energy loss due to eddies and such. Its also way inside so you probably won't have to worry about audible effects from any turbulence.
Best thing to do is ask someone who's built an L-port.
I've never built a slot port but JL uses "L" ports all the time in their designs:
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/pdfs/11636.pdf
The only thing I might be concerned about is the "corner" of the "L". You'd probably want to radius the inside corner with a sander/grinder and fill the outside with something to smooth out the airflow(maybe calk in 1/4 of a piece of PVC cut lengthwise?). It may not be that big of deal however, if there's not a significant amount of energy loss due to eddies and such. Its also way inside so you probably won't have to worry about audible effects from any turbulence.
Best thing to do is ask someone who's built an L-port.
