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Posted: Sun Jun 21, 2009 8:34 pm
by loudwagon15s
well, good news i finally got the engine back together and running today, but after starting it i got a god awful metal on metal ticking, brought it up on an escort forum, what do you guys think?
http://www.feoa.net/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=61513
i dont really understand when he says to remove the valve cover, then retorque once the engine is warm....what are the specific steps?
Posted: Sun Jun 21, 2009 9:31 pm
by NorthQuad
If the noise was instant, it's something other then nuts/whatever loosening as the engine warms and vibrates for the first time after repair. Which I'm sure is what he's suggesting it is.
Just me, but before starting the car again, I would go over the parts you think are ticking and check to see if they're loose or something is out of place. If you hear metal on metal, you could end up snapping off a valve and have it bounce around your cylinder a few goes or something. Then you'd be hooped. Hooped right in yer bung.
Posted: Mon Jun 22, 2009 8:52 am
by Ryan from Ohio
He wants you to warm the motor up. Pull the valve cover off THEN re torque the rocker arms warm.
Man...
I hope you pulled the oil pan off when you were doing this?
If your motor disintegrated a valve seat, that metal went somewhere...
Like the oil pan...
With an issue like that, now you got metal in the oil. So you pull the pan. Clean it completely, reinstall. Good, now you still have old oil residue in the passages with more metal.
So after a nice warm up, oil and filter change.
Posted: Mon Jun 22, 2009 9:09 am
by Bwcad1
Ryan from Ohio wrote:Bill left for vacation.
Ive been trying to design my amp rack.
= dead forum.
Not to mention nobody has much going on.
Best advice- when tightening down the rocker arms, rotate the crank to take the pressure off the rocker arm in particular. Otherwise you will get a false torque.
I just saw this, you blame the dead forum on me being on vacation!!! what the shit!
Posted: Mon Jun 22, 2009 10:45 am
by Ryan from Ohio
Its true?
Its not a matter of blame and its nothing bad.
Posted: Mon Jun 22, 2009 11:03 am
by Bwcad1
Ryan from Ohio wrote:Its true?
Its not a matter of blame and its nothing bad.
I know im just screwing around lol.
Posted: Mon Jun 22, 2009 12:02 pm
by loudwagon15s
well, when the valve seat blew out, it was when i was starting and all the metal remained in the cylinder where it remained which is why it wouldnt turn over, the broken seat was hitting the top of the head and piston. The knock is frickin loud as hell, so idk what to think of it
Posted: Mon Jun 22, 2009 4:01 pm
by loudwagon15s
so i made a new video,
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XgxH2C3xFog
i think it may be 1 of two possiblities
1. The valve spring is a tad bit too loose which is causing the piston to hit the valve on the upstroke, thus the car is still running on all 4 cylinders
2. the valve seat the machinist put in there blew out again and is causing this noise
Posted: Mon Jun 22, 2009 5:05 pm
by Ryan from Ohio
lolz
Sounds like a piston hitting a valve.
Did you reset the timing properly?
Is it an overhead cam?
If not did you get the pushods in right (ifit has them)?
Thats not a good noise at all.
If you didnt get the timing right, a piston probably hit a valve. Which will bend it and they wont seal properly.
If thats the case, you will have to pull the head and replace the valves. Also if it damaged the pistons you will need new ones also...
At which point a gallon of gas and a match might be funner
Posted: Mon Jun 22, 2009 5:25 pm
by loudwagon15s
well, with that car if the timing is off, it would be running like chit (at least i'm pretty sure) it runs smooth, just has that noise, lets just hope it just needs a shim on the valve, my luck would have it that it needs another engine AGAIN.....my dad just keeps insisting on fixing this f'n pos instead of just letting me use my own money to buy another car